IN THIS sleepy, leafy neighbourhood of Lausanne, moments from the shores of Lake Geneva, one does not expect to encounter a structure so palatial as the Royal Savoy Hotel & Spa. A remarkable fairytale château, with dramatic pitched roofs and pointed turrets, it sits comfortably against the cinematic backdrop of Alpine peaks.
Once the preferred lodgings for passengers of the Orient Express, the place was frequented by aristocrats, nobles, and royalty alike. I arrive, albeit not by carriage, and discover the hotel has maintained that same allure, but through a more contemporary lens.
Royal Savoy Hotel & Spa
Inside, carefully restored heritage features are cleverly injected with a modern attitude. The lobby, a striking atrium with grand arched walls adorned with Renaissance-era portraits, is enlivened by a striking chandelier centrepiece. The accompanying bar, overlooking the neatly manicured Japanese gardens, is flooded with light through giant glass windows, and appears to transform entirely depending on the hour. The newly built Park Wing houses the Spa Du Royal, a modern sanctuary complete with a connecting indoor-outdoor swimming pool.
Spa Outdoor Pool
This region of Switzerland, Lavaux, is notorious for wine, with a stretch of picturesque, terraced vineyards which line the water from Lausanne to Montreux. I arrive at the renowned Château de Glérolles, a centuries-old castle perched on the lakeside. Beneath the château’s shady trees, I sip a selection of delicious local Chasselas wines, each crisp and delicately fruity. These varieties are rarely exported, but are truly some of the finest. It’s a picture of perfection, as I overlook the calm, glistening water whilst feasting on charcuterie.
Sky Lounge
Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa
I spend my last evening at the Royal Savoy on the Sky Rooftop, enjoying the laid-back Mediterranean ambience, seasonal Italian cuisine, and a mesmerising panorama of Lausanne, Lake Geneva and the distant mountains. With the addition of a punchy Italicus Spritz, the cool evening breeze, and a charming sunset which gives the sky a pale orange hue, I seem to be transported.
The following morning, I set off to Bern, the country’s lesser-known capital. With my trusty Swiss Travel Pass, I seamlessly board the direct train from Lausanne, which, in true Swiss style, is spacious, clean and perfectly punctual. Far from the mundane train journeys I have come to expect, this one is accompanied by hypnotic views of the countryside, as flower-covered hillsides meander between spruce forests. As the train pulls into the platform, the hotel’s concierge is already stationed there with his magnificent golden trolley, and graciously carries my luggage to the hotel.
Signature Suite Bathroom
The Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa is an iconic landmark of the city. Situated within the UNESCO-listed medieval old town and directly across from the train station, is an enticing prospect for tourists and businessmen alike. It’s sleek, cool, and undoubtedly masculine, whilst maintaining that 19th century grandeur with a sense of modern refinement. My bedroom is absurdly large for a city hotel, with luxurious darkwood furnishings, and the bathroom follows suit, with black marble countertops, his-and-hers sinks, and a transformative rain shower.
Jack’s Brasserie
The hotel has become renowned for its gastronomy, most notably with Jack’s Brasserie, a certified Bernese institution, serving traditional French cuisine with a local flair. Decorated in a turn-of-the-century style, with stylish wooden booths, intricated gilded ceilings, and grand chandeliers, the place oozes old school Parisian glamour. I try a deeply nourishing tomato consommé, an explosion of flavour, followed by their signature veal Wiener Schnitzel. It’s delicious, and perfectly thin, served with a comforting creamy potato cucumber salad.
The city truly comes alive in these summer months. The streets feel youthful and energetic. Locals flock to the River Aare, spending long weekends by the water. I head there myself, wet bag in hand, taking a refreshing swim and spending my evening lounging by the river. As darkness begins to fall, I reluctantly retire to my bedroom. The following morning, I’m back again for one last dip.
by Jay Alexander
Explore the Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa at schweizerhofbern.com/en, and the Royal Savoy Hotel & Spa, Lausanne at royalsavoylausanne.com/en
One-way fares from London, Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh airports start from £76 to Zurich and from £54 to Geneva. swiss.com
Swiss Travel Passes start at £229 for three days; find out more at swisstravelpass.com