THE LOCATION of the Alaïa spring-summer 2023 show was within the walls of the unfinished new flagship store on 15 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Set to open in 2024, the decision to present the collection here felt as if the new-boy to the brand, creative director Pieter Mulier had begun to build his own design foundations at the Maison just like the shell he was showing in.
Looking at the very core of the brand this season, the designer uncovered the inherent contradiction that makes Alaïa so unique compared to its refined Parisian neighbours – he discovered the beauty of the juxtaposing control and release that is so apparent yet so subtle with the history of the House’s clothes.
Understanding the paradox within Alaïa, Mulier refined this contrast and emphasised the geometric yields that construct garments focusing on form that transforms with every gesture of the wearer. Baroque pearls, polka-dots and typography were light motifs found across the SS23 collection echoing the avant-garde aesthetic of the house and wants of consumers.
Exploring the innate stretch jersey that Alaïa is synonymous for, this season sees it reimagined as an essential part to the look – designed almost like a second skin. Think leggings, draped skirts and form fitting coeur-croisé tops. Though no collection would be complete without this, leather takes centre stage for SS23 finding itself raw-edged, unlined and mouton as separates and outerwear pieces.
Coming back to the notion of control and release, Mulier lent on archive collections to uphold inspiration for how he could present this in a contemporary manner. The solution was draping. It goes back to the freedom of flou that is deeply rooted in couture, whilst almost lining up to the ideology of Alaïa that focuses on the female body.
Material is therefore draped, knotted and completely manipulated breaking the rules, mirroring the same challenge to the norm by showing the innate structure of some garments on their exterior.
It has been this constant transfusion of the past into the today that Pieter Mulier has been able to execute so effortlessly. It has been no easy task to take on a brand so close to the heart of the fashion community but Mulier’s respect for its codes mixed with his own vision makes Alaïa one of the most exciting shows to watch as it has one of the last remaining elements of that old-school admiration for extravagance.
by Imogen Clark