Prada’s Autumn/Winter 2014 menswear collection is a late 1970s movie director searching for a new identity, whose companion – a languid femme fatale in knee-length leather dress – introduces us a hyper-feminine pre-Fall collection. They circle the audience on a steel and felt dark multilayered industrial platform – with their grave german avant-garde attitude and matching skinny scarf spotted by camera flash – just like a contemporary Pina Baush and Fassbender.
There’s lot of lonely theatricality coming from those loose trousers falling on thick-soled lacquered trainers, a nod of androgynous decadence on the light three-quarter dress-like coats worn careless on the skin. A protective trimmed quilted coat was doubtless the strongest pieces raising from the moody ennui of the brown and cinnamon dominated colour palette.
Most certainly this is a collection showing the unresolved reformist vein of Prada’s new path – in contrast with the last Spring/Summer Hawaiian prints and oversized portraits – with a strong focus on saleable tailoring. Miuccia’s followers will be looking forward to the up-coming womenswear show.
by Laura Rogliano
Images courtesy of Style.com