I HIT the throttle along a rare stretch of level terrain, my buggy carving a trail as it drifts through banks of volcanic dust. It follows a breathtaking journey of steep climbs and bone-shaking descents, my hands gripped to the steering wheel while navigating between vast black boulders and ancient lava flows as perfectly conical peaks rising up on both sides, punctuating the clouds above.
With a higher concentration of active volcanoes than anywhere else on the planet, Iceland is home to some of the world’s most awe-inspiring landscapes. And although here, in Iceland’s central Highlands, most of these giants lie dormant, their transformative impact looms large in all directions.
Reykjavik EDITON
Up ahead, my guide Saedis gestures to stop and I slide to a halt, dust drifting behind me. I hop out and dust myself down before being led down over a dramatic ridge where a river snakes its way past us. We follow the waterway along a craggy trail as the sky above shifts from menacing black to silvery grey. Suddenly we reach a cliff edge, and I hear our destination before I see it. Right ahead, the river runs off a rockface into an impossibly turquoise pool, its surface reflecting the volcanoes beyond.
Against this breathtakingly beautiful backdrop, we pause for a strong black coffee and a traditional twisted kleina doughnut – a welcome break in biting winds. After taking a moment to revel in the magnitude of the setting we return to our buggies, speeding through gentler contours and mossy fields before swapping the rugged 4×4 for a far smoother transfer back to Reykjavik.
The Penthouse | Photography by Nikolas Koenig
Deluxe King Harbor view | Photography by Nikolas Koenig
A storm approaches as we approach the Icelandic capital. Flocks of seabirds seek shelter as winds swirl around the city’s waterfront. Luckily my destination is the altogether more serene Reykjavik Edition, the Icelandic outpost of Ian Schrager’s luxe hotel brand, which has succeeded in raising the bar for hospitality within the city since launching in 2021.
Checking into the sleek surrounds of my expansive corner suite, defined by its midcentury fittings, tactile furnishings and floor-to-ceiling windows that frame harbour views. With the glassy geometrics of the angular Harpa concert hall right ahead of me, I begin to get my bearings before retreating to the chic low lighting and warm wood of the subterranean spa for a restorative soak.
Tides RibEye
Lobby Bar | Photography by Nikolas Koenig
Later that evening I’m ushered into Tölt, the Reykjavik Edition’s smart members bar, where Art Deco accents create a sleek speakeasy backdrop for a superlative nutmeg-spiked bourbon cocktail. Images of wild Icelandic horses adorn the walls, reflecting how, although international in outlook, this is a hotel rooted in its setting, from the basalt stone sculpture in the lobby to accents of black rock, terracotta and charred timber throughout the hotel.
This approach also carries through to its Tides restaurant, a celebration of local produce where grass-fed Icelandic lamb, Westfjords cod and hand-dived scallops are among the star dishes, served with panache as boats bob in the harbour outside. Just a few steps from Reykjavik’s lively Laugavegur Street, the city’s vibrant shopping district, the Edition makes a fantastic jumping off point for discovering the city, with calmer conditions allowing for an evening stroll to the spectacular Hallgrimskirkja cathedral, lit up against the night skies.
The Spa | Photography by Nikolas Koenig
The next morning, a journey north from the city along the scenic Hvalfjörður delivers me to the Hvammsvik hot springs, a series of geothermal steam baths set against magnificent mountains that soar above the black sand beaches. First discovered by the Vikings and since adopted by wellness seekers, it’s a hypnotically tranquil setting with rejuvenative qualities to cure all ills.
Later, as I glide above Reykjavik in Icelandair’s Saga Premium cabin, sipping on gin defined by foraged Icelandic botanicals, my final glimpse of the island’s dramatic cratered terrain leaves a lasting impression of this compelling island of contrasts, where the arrival of the Reykjavik Edition has served to bring further refinement to the island’s enduring rugged beauty.
by Ben Olsen
Rooms at the Reykjavik Edition start from approx. £320 per night. editionhotels.com/reykjavik
Icelandair flies from the UK to Iceland starting at £435 return in Saga Premium, offering elevated comfort, priority check-in and boarding, and Saga Lounge access at Keflavik, with departures from London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Glasgow & Edinburgh. icelandair.co.uk