WITH PRE-Fall usually comes an extravagant location to show and whilst New York may not seem that adventurous, it felt like a lovely homecoming for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior.
Using this seasonal intersection to pay homage to the American city and linking the two behemoths with the symbolism of the Statue of Liberty – notably a present from the French – this collection opened a dialogue about style, bridging the gap of modern taste with the more traditional savoir-faire.
Embodying both of these qualities was German-American actress Marlene Dietrich, who had a relationship with Dior both on and off screen. So, for Pre-Fall 2024, the creative director drew inspiration from her by translating her bolstering presence and boyish charm with the Dior silhouette.
Having made a habit of wearing menswear and tuxedos – an act of rebellion that provoked a tsunami of scandals – the designer used tweed and a variety of English fabrics to construct her version of this new uniform, mixing pencil skirts and wide-legged trousers with blazers, adding femininity to sartorial masculinity.
Obvious nods to the location added to the idea of the Dior girl being young, like flag satin bombers, decorated Saddle Bags and prints all added some playfulness to the linear cuts.
But in true Chiuri style, delicate womenswear dominated the collection. Glimpses of lingerie added some unassuming sex appeal, dresses nodded to the 40s arriving in a myriad of fabrics from hammered satin to crepe and lace and A-line cuts. Outerwear injected some strength and protection to the looks and knitwear played with plurality with the idea of limited layering for Pre-Fall.
A long way away from the days when Dietrich was shunned for mixing her wardrobe with men’s staples, Dior’s Pre-Fall 2024 collection painted a picture of today’s society where fashion is used to create endless possibilties, allowing women to be whoever they want to be.
by Imogen Clark