AS CHRISTMAS approaches and snow begins to blanket our streets, Covent Garden’s festive adornments become difficult to ignore. Whilst many flock to the Soho hotspot to glimpse the iconic bauble-covered Christmas tree, many others visit to survey the surrounding restaurants.
Enter Frog by Adam Handling – a Michelin-starred restaurant located just a stone’s throw away from Covent Garden’s countless theatres and markets.
Having started at Gleneagles as the first-ever apprentice chef, Handling went on to become Fairmont’s youngest Head Chef. Following on from his energetic start in the culinary world, the Scottish chef has won many accolades including Restaurateur of the Year in the British 2020 GQ Food and Drink Awards, BBC TV’s 2023 Great British Menu ‘Champion of Champions’, and was the youngest person to be one of the Caterer’s ’30 under 30 to watch’ in the 2013 Acorn Awards.
Lobster wagyu
With such impressive achievements, it is no surprise that Handling has garnered a notable following of 122K on Instagram. Offering glimpses into behind-the-scenes action and further information on his gastronomic chefs-d’œuvre, Handling continues to entice and enthral his online audience with contemporary British food.
But what makes Frog so special? Stepping into Frog by Adam Handling is a little bit like entering a different universe. The bustling atmosphere of Covent Garden diminishes, leaving guests in a cocoon of sophistication where plush furnishings meet brilliant floral arrangements accompanied by a soundtrack of gentle ambient music.
The restaurant is small yet undeniably intimate. We counted twenty-five diners during our visit – a number that elevated the exclusive feeling of a dining experience at Frog by Adam Handling. As one enters the restaurant, the front-of-house team immediately cater to one’s every need, offering warm flannels to banish any wintery chill and a glass of wine for extra comfort.
After settling in and soaking up our surroundings, our waiter Harry presented us with a series of welcoming snacks – wagyu bone broth, a cod belly and tigers milk ensemble, old Winchester cheese and onion skin bites, apple and duck sausage with fermented brown sauce, chicken liver pâté, and finally an elevated roast chicken sandwich.
Alongside each dish’s intricate plating, Handling has crafted a menu with a strong narrative. For example, the roast chicken sandwich is inspired by the chef’s sister – Marthe. The story goes that Adam Handling’s sister would only want roast chicken every Sunday lunch, but it was never an issue as any leftovers were enjoyed by the family the following day.
Frog by Adam Handling’s roast chicken sandwich pays homage to this tradition, with a ceramic chicken bowl arriving at the table, unveiling the tasty treat with a gust of smoke.
Roast Chicken Sandwich
The tasting menu continues with an opening course of crab with herb stalks and radish – a refreshing, floral starter, followed by a caviar course. Diners are presented with two N25 German caviar options – modern or heritage caviar. The modern choice adopts a warm, buttery taste, whereas the heritage caviar taps into traditional salty notes.
As each dish arrived at our table, our expert sommelier, Nadia, would guide us with suitable wine pairings. From fruity, full-bodied red wines to floral, zesty whites, the wine pairings complimented each course with ease.
Having enjoyed a wagyu bone broth at the start of the meal, wagyu made a reappearance with a Lobster wagyu offering – a hearty follow-up to the caviar course. In a display of versatility and playfulness, the menu also featured an inverted version of this dish, Wagyu lobster – a wagyu beef tart adorned with lobster and fragrant black truffle.
As dishes continued to emerge from the kitchen, including cod with green chilli and pickled grapes, duck with ketchup and purée, and a palette cleanser of parsley ice cream with hibiscus syrup and rapeseed oil, I realised that having a light lunch earlier in the day was an unexpected blessing. With generous portions and rich flavours, the tasting menu isn’t for the faint-hearted.
Finally, our visit to Frog by Adam Handling ended with a caramelised apple, woodruff, and custard dessert, which was a sweet, light denouement to the evening.
Caramelised Apple, Woodruff, and Custard Dessert
Whereas many Michelin-starred restaurants can feel intimidating, Frog by Adam Handling is different. By harnessing the power of British cuisine and centring one’s dining experience around family tradition and heritage, the restaurant exudes warmth and familiarity – sentiments that are certainly needed and welcomed during these colder months.
By Sophie Richardson
The tasting menu at Frog by Adam Handling costs £195 per person, with drinks pairings available for an additional cost. For more information or to book, please visit here. 34-35 Southampton St, London WC2E 7HG