Into the wild in Sri Lanka’s Uga Chena Huts

THE sun has barely made itself known above the horizon when our ranger, Jayaba, breaks from conversation and points excitedly at the horizon. “Leopard, on that rock,” he says, our jeep slowing to a halt as he grabs his binoculars. I do the same but, by the time I focus, the fast-moving grey smudge I spot has receded from view into the surrounding rosewood trees, with warning calls from squirrels and birds hinting at the big cat’s progress.

Bar at Uga Chena Huts

While most associate big game safaris with Africa’s storied reserves, another compelling option exists along the wild south-eastern shores of Sri Lanka. Here, Yala National Park, a semi-arid swathe of jungle set between mountain and ocean, is home to a thrillingly diverse flora and fauna distinct to the island, including the world’s highest density of leopards, which can reach up to twice the size of their African equivalents.

Edging deeper into Yala, huge gneiss rock formations push up past the canopy, malabar pied hornbills and storks flap past and we witness basking mugger crocodiles, water buffaloes taking a cooling dip and grey langur monkeys feasting on berries among the trees.

Bedroom interior

Private Plunge Pool

Such abundance has made Yala’s 100,000 hectares a haven for wildlife lovers and, on its fringes, Uga Chena Huts is perfectly positioned for those hoping for close encounters with nature. This stylish resort occupies the same habitat as the park, whose entrance is a five-minute drive away, meaning many of its residents can be spotted foraging or flying in sight of its scattering of 18 secluded thatched cabins.

Spread among the trees and linked by raised walkways, their design is inspired by traditional farmers’ lookout huts, all muted tones, handwoven textiles and natural materials, as well as luxe touches including the spacious standalone bath. Each comes with a private pool terrace, angled out into the scrub and it’s from here that I observe mongooses, swaggering monitor lizards and darting green bee-eater birds as I cool off after my first game drive.

Main Pool

Asian Elephant

More serendipitous sightings follow during sundowners, when a solitary bull elephant ambles along the beach as a handful of fortunate onlookers observe from the terrace. It’s a thrilling, unexpected moment and there’s a hushed silence as our new companion rustles through the scrub in search of evening sustenance.

With the sun dipping further towards the horizon, eyes turn skywards as a tapestry of stars and planets become visible as the bar team deliver gin and tonics and a chorus of cicadas and frogs accompanies the crash of the Indian Ocean on the shore.

Basses Restaurant

Grilled prawns at Uga Chena Huts

Taking its name from the Basses lighthouse blinking offshore, which wards passing ships off Sri Lanka’s southern reef, the resort’s restaurant is a sophisticated melding of Sri Lankan influences and ingredients with a focus on over-fire cooking. As well as claypot curries and spicy sambals, barbecued seafood is a speciality, while mornings offer coconutty halapa pancakes, buffalo curds with kithul treacle and tropical fruit platters alongside international brunch staples. 

Beach at Uga Chena Huts

Over the days that follow, further game drives – part of Uga Chena Huts’ all-inclusive offering – shed more light on the region’s residents, with Jayaba’s deep knowledge accompanying each sighting with fascinating context. We visit prehistoric settlements and stop for snacks at a commanding viewpoint where Yala’s dramatic expanse opens up in front of us.

On a beach walk between dunes and shoreline, we spot buffalo tracks, elephant dung and telltale signs of turtles heaving themselves out of the sea’s strong currents to lay eggs the night before. Even the insect life sets out to impress here, with bright-hued dragonflies and butterflies a constant around the tree-lined pool. While the leopard might have remained but a grey smudge on this occasion, Sri Lanka’s vivid landscapes and abundant wildlife play out in thrillingly high definition.

by Ben Olsen

Nightly rates at Uga Chena Huts start from $1,237 per night, based on two adults sharing a Luxury Pool Cabin on an all-inclusive basis. ugaescapes.com/chenahuts