CHUNKY knits and a surplus of tulle – Molly Goddard continues to perfect her design aesthetic with her AW22 collection. The collection is inspired by Portobello and Camden in the late 1980s and ‘90s.
It draws references from her mum’s best friend, who Goddard describes as “a cross between Marilyn Monroe and Mick Jones — big bleached blonde hair with a flower in it, red lipstick, a ‘50s dress with an army jacket and trainers.”
As expected, the garments are delightful, playful and wondrously frilly. Why fix something if it’s not broken?
This season, Goddard experimented with prints. A pair of sheer trousers with ruffle details at the hem sport a burgundy print reminiscent of vintage floral wallpaper and one’s junk drawer. Images of watches and beaded bracelets overlay a subtle, Mary Quant flower esque pattern.
An adorable graphic of a gallivanting horse being enveloped with flowers by some baby angels is printed on various t-shirts and dresses. The floral trend continues onto the denim garments, which boast a muted, Victorian-era floral pattern.
There is a rainbow worth of different coloured taffeta dresses with ruffle details, including a hot pink mini and a deep navy fishtail number. Bright colours are not reserved for spring and summer. Drop waist dresses were cut from nude and black tulle – a toned-down version of Goddard’s signature tulle gowns. Almost every dress and skirt were styled with a pair of either fishnet or knit tights.
This is courtesy of Alice Goddard – Molly Goddard’s runway stylist and sister. Models wore either pointed stilettos or trainers that resembled vintage wrestling shoes. The trainers, coloured with shades of orange or green, were also available in platform and knee-high versions. They are in the ring for next season’s “it” shoe.
“The overall look is eclectic, here’s-what-I-found-down-the-market”, Goddard describes her collection. Tinsel-like fabric is utilised to make handbags, midi skirts and matching scarf and beanie sets. Military motifs are carefully sprinkled throughout the lineup, balancing out the ultra-feminine garments.
The menswear included oversized, double-breasted suits and minimalistic herringbone outwear. Knitwear is layered under and over voluminous skirts and dresses – most notably the finale look featuring a vibrant, fair isle sweater paired with a butter-coloured train of tulle.
There is something uniquely youthful yet vintage about Goddard’s design sensibility, which lends itself wonderfully to nostalgia. Her AW22 is packed with delicious colours and luxurious textures. Without fail, Molly Goddard instils joy into every London Fashion Week.
by Jamison Kent