ASIAN-American designer Chet Lo recognises Asia and Asian culture in multiple ways: from the lens of his heritage as well as via “the colonialist history of Western interpretations of Asian art” as the AW25 show notes read.
Lo’s AW25 collection brought ‘Modern Antiquity’ to the runway via knitwear, the designer’s focus since graduating with a BA degree in Knitwear from London’s Central St Martins in 2020.
By plucking the stereotypes of chinoiserie and reconfiguring them via a modern and Asian perspective, Modern Antiquity re-draws, frames, and contextualises Asian stereotypes and caricatures within a modern creative context: the brand’s AW25 collection.
The label explains “drawing inspiration from misrepresented artistic tropes, Modern Antiquity manipulates traditional Western depictions of Asian culture and reshapes them into contemporary, subversive designs”.
The tiger motif appeared both loud and subtly across the looks, from grey tiger-like stripes across zip-up jumpers and matching mini-skirts – a print that appeared in mulberry and pinks as well as greens across knitted bodycon dresses, cardigans, scarves, and faintly flared knit trousers. Large white un-manicured nails referenced wildcat claws, adding to the collection’s references.
Across the set, rose motifs cast amongst branches and thorns symbolised prosperity and new beginnings. Floral motifs also peppered the garments, morphing from cloud-like outlines to floral shapes “reinforcing the theme of transformation through fabric and form.”
The signature merino wool spike-knit details appeared regularly too, a house code for the label now, once again creating an almost plastic-like dimension and casting a shadow across the monochromatic pieces.
Stand-out looks include floor-length dresses (adorned with the classic wool spike-knit design) featuring cross-strap backs, featured in both black and a plum-like purple-brown. Chet Lo’s idiosyncratic intricate woven pleating added textures and dimensions to the garments and also affirmed the brand’s high level of craftsmanship and speciality with wool materials.
Across the AW25 collection, the colour palette remained largely neutral, swapping the electric blues of Chet Lo’s SS25 collection that debuted in London last autumn with pinks and greys.
The show’s Front Row welcomed esteemed guests from the fashion crowd, including designer (and friend of the brand) Harris Reed. Chet Lo’s work is no stranger to celebrity attention and has been worn by the likes of Dua Lipa, Doja Cat, and Kylie Jenner.
From craft to colour to pattern, Chet Lo affirms “this collection is not just fashion – it is an act of cultural reclamation, reinvention, and celebration”.
by Ella Mansell