Burberry is always the highlight of London Fashion Week and today’s show captured the finest of what British enterprise has to offer. Set in the pretty, tranquil Kensington Gardens and with London’s unpredictable weather mercifully sunny, crowds of onlookers and amateur paparazzi lined the path leading up to the Burberry pavilion hoping to catch a glimpse of glamorous celebrities. And whilst there were plenty of A-listers to be seen, in the line of duty Glass’ eyes were kept firmly on the clothes.
As the lights dimmed inside and the final guests that were still standing were almost pushed into their seats, (Burberry is the ONLY show that actually starts on the dot due to their live streaming across the globe) the melodic strains of English singer-songwriter Ed Harcourt announced the arrival of the first model. It was immediately clear that this was a Bailey collection with a difference. Usually a strong proponent of pencil skirts and structured coats – which he has incarnated in every conceivable form – Burberry’s winter woman was relaxed, bohemian and, dare I say it, ‘floaty’. Soft chiffons in primitive floral prints swayed and flowed around the models as they walked, embodying femininity and understated luxury. They were the kind of clothes that made you mentally calculate how soon you can get your hands on them if you added your name to the waiting list the second the show finished.
Then came another surprise for a Christopher Bailey show – an Aztec print poncho. This really was a show breaking away from the Burberry house codes. Thick knitted blankets, ponchos and jackets were artfully layered over the aforementioned chiffon dresses creating a stunning and unexpected effect. This show was as much a masterclass in styling as it was a lesson in what to buy next season.
Thick knits gave way to delicate lace dresses cinched with Pocahontas belts and weightless floral silk scarves. Some sheer dresses flashed a little more derrière than one might usually expect from winter wear which prompted a humorous exchange between US Vogue Editor Anna Wintour and her guest, Bradley Cooper, but Glass are sure that she was saying, ‘If I was ten years younger, I would totally wear that.’ Because that’s certainly what we were thinking!
Congratulations Christopher on another dazzling display of ingenuity and undeniable talent.
by Nicola Kavanagh