TO BE a woman is to be one side of the binary – but what happens when we use the power of binary oppositions to explore womanhood?
This question is answered in the deep colour palette and contrasting materials of Alberta Ferretti‘s AW24.
The opening look said it all – Ferretti’s signature 1990s slip dress was reinvented with a bodice of lace and flannel, paired with a pleated maxi skirt, defining the collection with a blending of masculine and feminine energy that speaks to the modern woman.
Heather grey ran throughout, interrupted by shades of lime and cinnamon, as the designer known for her evening dresses blurs the line between day and night, matching the fast-paced world we live in.
Sharp tailored suits follow sheer collarbones and black mini-skirts, with garment impeccably fitting the lines of the body.
A motif of pinstripes was created through illuminous metal discs, and an optical illusion of draping is crafted through liquid jersey. Giving way to intricate silver beading, sheer maxi dresses invited visions of sensual femininity, bold and powerful in Ferretti’s combining of masculinity and sleek silhouettes.
Medallions, sequins, and rhinestones evoked the glamour of an evening under the moonlight, while the pragmatic fabric of cordonetto formed large jacquard knits, strong and soft for the daytime.
Inspired by the idea of decoration and offering garments that can be worn and interpreted in many different ways, Ferretti offered looks of monochrome tweed, dark enveloping coats, and belted leather jackets, in what can only be described as a perfected understanding of the notion of contrast.
Ferretti’s autumn-winter 2024 is a continuation of her poetic vision for womenswear, and yet simultaneously showcases the designer’s awareness of woman’s ever-changing identity, providing a collection which is elegant and concrete at once.
by Madeleine Ringer