In the run-up to this season’s behemoth Prada show, Miuccia kept her cards close to her chest. The show invite, a minimal white card bearing nothing but the essential details, gave nothing away.
And if the invite was mysterious, then the set was a veritable head-trip. Purple sand dunes poured over a rusty-hued carpet inside the showspace on the Via Fogazzaro. Things were strange, even by Prada standards.
As the show unfolds, we learn to expect the unexpected, as Miuccia’s new model army lures the inimitable Gemma Ward back into the fold, with the celebrated super halting her eight-year hiatus to open the show in a retro-collared, contrast-stitched coat. A Twitter frenzy ensues.
AW14’s Seventies vibe continue throughout the show, with a muted, and relatively un-summery colour palette of tan, yellow, orange and navy. Key silhouettes include the belted coat, the flippy midi skirt – preferably in a buttery, tan leather- and the neat, nipped shift dress. So far, so easy. But in the hands of Mrs. Prada, these staple silhouettes are transformed into something wonderfully unusual and wholly new – never an easy feat in today’s fashion climate. Vintage-tinged brocades, weighty damasks and felted wools (these were specially-commissioned artisanal fabrics, so we hear) were panelled, patchworked and pinned together to incredible effect. Elements of deconstruction were evident, yet well-controlled with loose threads and frayed edges highlighting the emphasis on traditional craftsmanship. Accessories were, unsurprisingly, perfect: saffiano bowling bags, Cinderella slippers and clunky sandals (with socks, please) were certain future classics, destined to be the new season’s big-hitters.
When it comes making-up faces, we can always count on Miuccia to turn the beauty zeitgeist on its head. This season, she redefines the rules with regards to the industry’s current obession: the eyebrow. The new way to preen those lovingly-nurtured brows? Draw a pencil-thin line over them- or just above them, to be precise.
It seems that when Miuccia feels compelled to look back at the craftsmanship which birthed the industry, the world takes notice. Tonight’s show was an undeniable triumph, full of wearable creations which both define and transcend the impending season – afterall, style has no sell-by.
And it you’re still recovering, (alongside the Twittersphere), from that heavy dose of supermodel delirium, catch up quick – that’s Lara Stone closing the show.
by Roberta Lister
Images courtesy of Style.com