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MFWM AW25: Brunello Cucinelli


For AW25, the label’s takedown of timeless classics continues apace. 

Fomenting the fashion revolution isn’t the purpose of Brunello Cucinelli’s oeuvre. Rather, the label continues rolling its quiet evolution—this season, adding tailoring and breezy separates to a previously formal-centric lineup.

Cucinelli’s strength is in crafting ever more understated, fuss-free clothes that are palatable on commercial appeal, so inspiration from Greek philosophy takes shape in a simple melange-tinged topper tucked into a white corduroy trouser, or in the flat billowing outerwear piece finishing the waist of an otherwise plain grey mohair cardigan. 

Anything new to write about? Perhaps not. But something is to be said for aptly decoding trends into simple, well-priced looks that make an attractive, anonymous affection into a wardrobe with seamless directions. And that something might be, “add it to the basket.”

Lightness is the defining constant across all collection categories and is prominently featured in the extensive outerwear range. The outerwear line transitions seamlessly into summer with ultra-light nylons and pure cashmere fabrics for a delicate and luxurious touch.

Outerwear is enhanced with thoughtful details such as quilted satin finishes or designs that reinterpret sporty styles. Soft leathers combine quality and comfort with innovative treatments, while plush shearling furs offer protection or are reinvented as sophisticated accents.

Colour regains its intensity and becomes the centrepiece around which the look revolves: amaranth, pumpkin, radish, sapphire and cloud are beautifully enhanced by pairing with timeless greys, beiges and, above all, blues. The amplification of original characteristics promotes new harmonies.

Nylons complement brushed formal fabrics, raw-effect denim takes on a contemporary elegance and garment-dyed fabrics introduce subtle sporty nuances. New flecked yarns, rare fibres and airy textures refine the season’s palette. The traditional Shetland aesthetic is reimagined with a soft and sophisticated touch, creating pieces that are both cosy and light.  

In the quest for cohesion, balance and harmony, details make all the difference, adding character and timeless style.

by Chidozie Obasi

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