KENZO’S creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim made a politically motivated call-back to the brand’s maverick fashion milestones for AW17. By showing us what Kenzo Takada achieved as a designer who sought to transcend his country and cultural stereotyping, in many ways becoming an honorary Frenchman, Leon and Lim have said balderdash to the current heated climate surrounding views on immigrants.
Dubbing the collection Momento, the two designers took their cues directly from the Kenzo archive. Immediately came the primary colours and articulate florals contrasted with workman chic jumpsuits. When Kenzo first came onto the scene in 1970 his clothing was hailed as being fresh and spirited, now nearly sixty years later Leon and Lim have successfully modernised that spirit to remind new generations how Kenzo can boast just as much, if not more, heritage appeal than its competitors.
It wasn’t a total creative shift by any means. The ruffled bones of what Leon and Lim have excelled in, since being appointed creative directors du jour in 2012, were apparent but it was good to see them dipping into the smocks, tunics, oriental blouses and wide-leg trousers that the brand made its signature staples long ago. Fortunately not so long ago however that they can’t be referenced and not regenerated. Humberto Leon made it clear that the collection still needed to feel “like the future of Kenzo” and did that by deftly uniting today’s trends with Kenzo’s most timeless looks. And it certainly was a look.
by Livia Feltham
Images courtesy of Kenzo