CHRISTENING the brand’s new headquarters in the 16ᵉ arrondissement, Maison Margiela continued the fictional narrative presented at their 2022 Artisanal Collection, Cinema Inferno, with the Co-Ed collection.
A sequel to the gothic narrative of two-ill fated lovers, for the Autumn/Winter season the Maison tell the story of Count and Hen, the fictional characters imagined by Galliano. Not just a show, but rather a full-scale performance piece, both guests and online viewers are taken through multiple rooms of the Parisian headquarters, with each room furthering the intricate story through careful clothing and set design.
Texture is of course a key element of the garments, as it is with anything Maison Margiela. Wool plaids created in collaboration with Pendleton are seen in rompers, shirts and cardigans, and contrast the soft silk gazar and lamé brocade used in a series of outerwear and evening coats. Evening dresses appear in tulle, mesh and silk organza, some blanketed in sequins for an added touch of glamour.
An essence of Americana is also injected into the clothing with continual motifs of Mickey Mouse appearing in a variety of designs. American Western yokes allude to the famous rodent’s ears, whereas t-shirts and cadet hats feature more evident imagery.
The contrasting fabrics, partnered with fishnet fascinators and a plethora of patterns almost create a ultra-chic scarecrow type of aesthetic, tying into to the continual references to the American heartland an a dominantly earthy colour palette. This theatricality is certainly emoted through the grandiose presentation, and hypnotising performance from the likes of model Leon Dame.
One final detail present at the show were the accessories, with all attention being drawn to the eyewear. Produced by Gentle Monster, the glasses herald the upcoming collaborative collection between the two brands, and accent the garments from the Co-Ed 23 collection perfectly.
by Ben Sanderson