THE MOST fundamental part of Louis Vuitton is the essence of travel. And for autumn-winter 2025, the designated mode of transport is locomotive.
Beginning and ending on the platform, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière dug deeper than the concrete floor to uncover the emotive strings attached to this formative part of the journey. Some wave goodbyes to loved ones. Others begin an adventure here. Whether you’re there for departure or for your arrival, the designer wanted to hone in on the excitement of discovery.
Inviting guests to the 19th-century L’Étoile du Nord next to the Gare du Nord, the former railway headquarters served as an apt stage to unveil a collective of characters, rather than a uniformed group.
Really taking in the aspect of individuality when at places like Grand Central Station or St Pancras, AW25 was centred purely around different destinations – some more casual looking as if they were about to go on a holiday, a fishing trip or even a hike, others imbuing a heightened formality like commuting to work or come from more extravagant upper-classes.
This cinematic unravelling of avant-garde caricatures was also brought to life through silver-screen references. Looking to his team to pinpoint enchanting moments that include rail travel, Brief Encounter, 2046 and Snowpiercer naturally found themselves on the moodboard for the season.
Though they didn’t translate too directly into the clothes, they mirrored Ghesquière’s nuanced ability to design a myriad of eclectic pieces that tie multiple aesthetics together. Like luxury gorp-core, blanket coats and trenches with t-shirt jumpsuits, velvet skirts and floral slip-dresses.
Obviously accessories found centre stage for AW25. The famous Keepall debuted a new chapter of its evolution, fittingly now titled L’Express. Hat boxes and vanity cases were also seen on the looks, with the latter hinting more at the House’s expansion into beauty later this year.
Adding to this juggernaut is a special collaboration with German electronic group Kraftwerk, whose album cover for Trans Europe Express is found weaved in some of the looks hinting at a future capsule to be discovered.
With Louis Vuitton always on a mission to go places that others won’t, Ghesquière continues to take us on journeys where it seems everyone is welcome to come. Pack your bags, we have a train to catch!
by Imogen Clark