JUXTAPOSITION between perfection and deconstruction, the Hyun Mi Nielsen SS18 Couture collection kicked off with an all black number featuring raw hems and torn fabric, challenging the concept of beauty appears to be an inspiration. Tailored blazers constructed of luxurious fabrics have been paired with black leather straps embellished by seashells. Feminine touches in the form of hanging ruffles and silks conflict with shredded hems and leather detailing.
Nielsen’s use of boxy blazers and mismatching denim presented in a grungy, deconstructed approach could suggest a 90’s influence, but taken out of context with contemporary fabric manipulations and unique garment cuts. A slight Moroccan vibe emanates as the collection continues, as tile motifs are sported as decorative layers on top of outfits and for quilting stitch patterns. Styled with slip on loafers synonymous with traditional Moroccan pumps.
Leather straps are woven to create an individual textile, referred to often in multiple outfits. With the addition of patchwork leather and a blurring print, it is clear that Nielsen used her unusual fabric manipulations to heighten the collection, allowing craftsmanship to be appreciated. A late use of a floral print is conflicting of the collection thus far, bringing a dainty touch.
White lace is another late introduction, with the same dainty effect as the floral print; it is teamed with black leather to balance the masculine and feminine attributed in the collection. On the run up to the final look, garments become more extravagant. Headpieces have grown from draping fabrics to woven leather caps. Ruffling is revisited in a vibrant rust orange that has been contrasting the black leather from the off. The final look is a dramatic, billowing dress and. Styled with cowboy boots paying tribute to the current wild western trend the outfit was literally, a showstopper.
by Todd Burns