CUSTOMARILY, the Comme des Garçons show at Paris Fashion week held joyful bursts of colour, and pushed the boundaries with a gleeful mash of tailoring, texture and tenacity, typical of a brand helmed by the brave promotor of raw creativity, Rei Kawakubo.
As previously observed in various AW20 fashion weeks, monochrome remains a central theme that every designer addresses, each with a distinct variation. For CDG, this was presented in the style of an intriguing optical illusion, with a clash of loud diamonds and lines, complemented with an ombré-style black to blond wig. Needless to say, these wigs have since caused controversy, with the appropriation of the cornrow hairstyle being problematic.
Another central theme, noted in a number of shows, was the combination of pink and red, which seems to be a winning formula currently trending in menswear. Andrew Scott’s suit at the Critic’s Choice Awards was yet another example of the wholehearted embrace that this bold design is experiencing.
Kawakubo also plays with layering, and draws particular attention to a large amount of jewel-toned waistcoats. With the release of Little Women in cinemas and a particular influx of period/film remakes, the waistcoat may indeed be swinging back into fashionable relevance.
The styling incorporated hair as an accessory, potentially nod to Jaden Smith’s shorn dreadlocks that he brought with him to the 2017 Met Gala (which, incidentally, was themed as Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons). And as we expect, we do see some CDG-branded items, with striking red outwear and skirts.
Amongst grey winter weather, Comme des Garçons once again reminded us that colourful, risk-taking fashion is a surefire way to add cheer.
by Simone Williams
Images: Elizabeth Pantaleo for NOWFASHION