PFWM AW24: Givenchy

ALL future begins with the past, and after the departure of Givenchy‘s creative director Matthew Williams, the design team looked to the personal style of their founder for their latest muse.

A man known for his sensual and flamboyant style, perfectly merged with an effortless dedication to elegance, Hubert de Givenchy’s touch traced every inch of fabric in Givenchy’s autumn-winter 2024.

His tasteful morphing of masculine and feminine designs set the foundation to a modern reconstruction of the Givenchy gentleman – and it is in the original studio of the 3 Avenue George V salon, that this paving of the future took place.

Amidst the muted primers of greys and blacks, shades of sapphire layered themselves as the defining colour of the collection, as an ode to the founder’s love of the colour.

An archival theme of chandeliers came to light in opulent embroidery of crystals and pearls, and an archival cat motif was re-born in print and shearling form, featured across an array of garments and bags.

Tailored trousers, doubled-up cardigans, double-breasted tuxedos, and bomber jackets in upholstery chenille evoke the dignified characteristics of the contemporary gentleman.

Yet, a master of duality, Givenchy simultaneously offered more eccentric mavericks of plaited hair prints, orange-tinted dandy sunglasses, and a revived 2G emblem as the team construe a bold take on classic menswear.

Monochrome suits of royal blue punctuated the line of looks, but not without a nod to Hubert de Givenchy’s beloved adoration for capes – seen in freeing jacket incisions under the sleeves. A most sentimental piece appeared in a reinterpretation of Hubert de Givenchy’s blouse blanche, taking shape in both sleeved and sleeveless form.

As a remembrance of the designer’s love of nature, the natural world served as material inspiration through grained buffalo leather and velvet cowhide in the Voyou bag, as well as the deerskin Pandora bag.

For a brand whose direction has been led under an array of iconic names, the creative talent of the Givenchy studio continues to shine just as radiantly without a leading director.

With a profound and poised ability to redefine the traditional expressions of the gentleman, Givenchy’s autumn-winter 2024 collection stands as a wonderful testament to the Parisian brand’s heritage and future.

by Madeleine Ringer

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