OUR cruise expedition aboard Ponant’s Le Boreal along Greenland’s west coast fuses the thrill of exploring the world’s largest island –home to just 56,000 people – with the sophistication of French elegance.
Our adventure begins just north of the Arctic Circle near the town of Kangerlussuaq with an all-terrain drive in a Mercedes Unimog to reach the planet’s second-largest ice sheet, which the locals refer to as Sermersuaq. We forge across the rugged tundra, with musk oxen grazing in the distance and reindeer moving gracefully across the barren landscape.
Ponant’s Le Boreal
From time to time, our driver pauses, inviting us to absorb Greenland’s profound remoteness – a place where silence feels as infinite as the horizon. Upon arriving at the ice sheet’s edge, as we exit the vehicle a strong icy wind hits our faces with a blast. Before us stretches a glistening expanse of stark whiteness, which in its entirety blankets 80 percent of Greenland’s surface. The ice shimmers like a sea of diamonds beneath the midday sun. Its brilliance almost surreal.
Zodiac adventure along the coast of Qeqertarsuaq
Sisimiut
Le Boreal is a sleek and stylish small-capacity vessel accommodating just 264 guests, who are attended by a crew of 145. Our cosy Prestige Suite features a softly lit bedroom, a plush sitting area and a spacious veranda – perfect for basking in the Arctic sunlight.
Anticipation builds as our charismatic captain, Malo Bessec, outlines our voyage from Kangerlussuaq towards Disko Bay. We are each gifted a signature-red Ponant expedition parka, fitted out with knee-high waterproof boots for wet landings, then handed a lightweight lifejacket for Zodiac excursions. After a comprehensive safety briefing, we’re ready to sail into the wild Arctic.
Our expedition leader, John Frick, delivers insightful daily briefings outlining what we shall be viewing during the next day’s sailing, where we shall be disembarking, and offering guidance on our attire for the day. He is supported by an expert team of naturalists, including Jaakusaaq, an Inuit who offers a captivating glimpse into Greenlandic life, culture, geology and cuisine. Each day we excitedly board the Zodiacs in small groups and skim across glassy fjords to either land on Greenlandic shores or simply cruise between the gigantic icebergs along the jagged icy coastlines.
The edge of Kangerlussuaq Glacier
We’re also educated about the lifecycle of icebergs. We learn that they break away from the great Greenlandic ice sheet, drifting through multiple fjords at the mercy of Arctic winds and currents until they reach the sea, where they later calve into multiple smaller icebergs and ultimately dissolve, a process which can take between a few months to several years.
We experience one of the voyage’s highlights 250km north of the Arctic Circle. Standing atop a mountain, we view the dramatic Sermeq Kujalleq glacier, one of the fastest moving ‘rivers of ice’ in the world, the only audible sound being the cracking of broken ice as it moves 24m each day towards the Ilulisat Icefjord – the first Arctic site inscribed in Unesco’s World Heritage List.
Le Boreal lounge
Uniquely, the Ponant cruise also presents an opportunity to discover Inuit culture, visiting remote seaside villages that are all ordained with clusters of brightly coloured painted homes, seemingly clinging to the charcoal tinted cliffs. We learn about the unique Greenlandic way of life and how Greenlanders adapt to the harshest winters on Earth.
Gastronomy is a cornerstone of the Ponant experience, with two distinctive dining venues. At La Licorne, the formal restaurant, we indulge in refined French-inspired cuisine, delicate Mediterranean dishes, vegetarian creations and artfully plated indulgences, including stupendous gourmet cheeses (crafted by renowned Breton producer Jean-Yves Bordier) and the sommelier’s curated wine list.
Setting out on a Greenlandic hike
For a more relaxed setting, we head to La Boussole, offering an abundant buffet by the pool (weather permitting), which features fresh salads, charcuterie, pastas and classic French favourites. The weekly lunchtime barbecue becomes a convivial highlight beneath the Arctic sun. Whether formal or casual, our Ponant dining experience proves that adventure and elegance can co-exist in perfect harmony.
On our final evening, as Le Boreal sails southwards in Baffin Bay, we stand on deck, warmly attired in our Ponant parkas. We gaze at the Arctic moonscape with a sense of wonderment, reflecting on everything this journey has given us. The memories of our adventure will linger long after our return home.
by Amanda Bernstein
For additional information visit en.ponant.com or call Ponant on +442037697458
From £7,980 per person.