HIDDEN behind a quiet façade in a calm muse with cobbled stone, just a few steps away from Berkeley Square, The Cocochine unlike many establishments nearby, doesn’t feel the need to shout in order to attract attention.
It’s all about the food enjoyed in an intimate atmosphere that counts here; inviting guests on a journey that begins the moment they step into the townhouse, bathed in dark wood and fragrant with scents wafting from the kitchen.
The Cocochine
Opened last year by Chef Larry Jayasekara and Tim Jefferies, owner of the Hamiltons Galleries, this well-oiled duo reaches further than just dining – aiming for a holistically artistic experience merging food and art. Rooms and corridors’ walls are adorned with Richard Avedon and Irving Penn with their stark black and white photography shining against the warm darkness of the moody interior.
The Cocochine
Now, in his solo venture, Sri Lankan-born Jayasekara made his name learning his craft in some of the world’s finest kitchens, training under big names such as Raymond Blanc and Gordon Ramsay and eventually leading the Michelin-starred Pétrus in London.
Pouring his heart and soul, he created a deeply personal dining experience for each guest, one rooted in old-school hospitality and choice of the best ingredients. Sourcing seasonal produce from a farm in Northamptonshire and seafood from the Scottish coast, he crafts modern dishes inspired by his Sri Lankan heritage.
Dry Aged Rowler Farm Sika Deer
Spread across four stories of a beautifully designed Georgian townhouse, each floor is its own secluded world, resembling more of an exclusive members’ club than a typical restaurant. The ground-floor dining room is soaked in warm, dim lighting – carefully angled to not cast any shadows on the table – delicately illuminating burgundy leather sofas and classic herringbone parquet.
Upstairs, the first floor hides an exclusive seven-seat section allowing guests to observe the magic happening at the chef’s counter – a must-have in any fine dining restaurant. The very limited seating that shares an enclosed space with the chefs makes you feel fully submerged in the creative process. I’m surprised to hear that the restaurant sits only 35 tables, instead dedicating almost a third of the entire space to, arguably, the most important element of fine dining jigsaw – the kitchen.
The Cocochine
We are led to the top floor, where a high-ceiling private dining room awaits us to start with a glass of champagne. With a long central table and surrounding sofas, the space is far from resembling a restaurant, more similar to a comfortable living room – albeit one with its private bar. A selection of canapés arrives: delicate burrata and tomato tartlets, a truffle ball crowned with even more shaved truffle, and a reimagined cheese and onion bite, finished, naturally, with caviar.
When we sit at our table, we are presented with a basket of warm bread, which feels like a welcome to heaven, if the door to paradise offered a limitless array of gluten. Each piece is equally irresistible: a sweet onion brioche or crusty sourdough loaf, which disappears in seconds, smeared generously with soft, salted butter.
Japanese tuna otoro
I enthusiastically order otoro tuna topped with golden Oscietra caviar – a meticulous pairing developed by Jayasekara during his visit to a soy shop in Japan. It melts on the tongue with flavours perfectly complementing each other. The lobster that follows is barbecued on an open grill in front of our table, still sizzling as it arrives on the plate. Wrapped in a banana leaf, a nod to Southeast Asian technique, it’s deeply infused with earthy, smoky notes that balance the subtle sweetness of the meat.
For the main course, I chose wild John Dory, paired with lobster (you can never get enough), a delicate courgette flower, and an intensely orange pickled peach. On a whim, we follow the sommelier’s suggestion and pair it with a glass of 2019 Kracher Zweigelt – the subtle berry notes of the red wine complement the dish’s gentle sweetness beautifully.
My guest selects the dry-aged turbot, presented in a vibrant, floral composition, finished with shavings of Australian truffle and edible blossoms. It’s a dish as visually striking as it is delicious – an artwork that vanishes as quickly as it arrives.
Larry Jayasekara
Although tempted to skip dessert, the staff gently insist we try the Tahitian vanilla ice cream – and what better sign of a brilliant meal than being persuaded to reconsider what might be the plainest contender in the pudding world? Unsurprisingly, it is a revelation. Enveloped in a warm embrace of caramel sauce, the ice cream has the texture of a perfectly chilled cloud. A definition that what is simple does not have to be boring.
In a part of London saturated with polished tasting menus and impeccable service, The Cocochine quietly carves out its own path, defined not by spectacle, but by having a soul and a story behind it. Its commitment to traditional hospitality and a personal approach results in a dining experience that feels genuinely thoughtful. And what better proof of its success than the calendar already booked up for the upcoming months?
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book visit here
The Cocochine, 27 Bruton Pl, London, W1J 6NQ