A FEW STEPS away from iconic department store Selfridges is the equally iconic Beaumont Hotel, tucked away down a quiet Mayfair street that borders the picturesque Brown Hart Gardens. Although the five star property is less than a decade old, having opened its doors in 2014, it exudes old-school glamour of the richest sorts. Inspired by the grand hotels of the 1920s, the stunning Art Deco building it occupies really sets the scene.
Perhaps even more impressively, the Beaumont houses the most elegant dining room in the West End. The Colony Grill really is a most stunning affair: cerise-hued lampshades light up burgundy leather banquets, all of which are framed by dark wood panelling. The colourful paintings on the wall and carpeted floor make for exquisite final touches.
But the absolute star of the show? That has to be Paul, the pianist, whose performance on the evening we visited blew us away. So impressive was the ambiance that dinner without live music now seems almost pointless.
The Colony Grill in Mayfair
The Colony Grill certainly isn’t all looks, though. This place also absolutely delivers on the food front. Emulating the classic New York-style steak houses that have that sort of storied reputation, the menu is filled with classic salads, seafood dishes, and, of course, first-class meats.
We started with the Shrimp Cocktail: a cluster of juicy shrimps that were beautifully arranged around a pot of rich, peach-coloured Marie Rose sauce. This was followed by the Garden Vegetable Salad: an admirably all-vegan dish consisting of the freshest leaves and pickled veggies, accompanied by a creamy almond-based sauce. Such clean-tasting, healthy dishes had to, of course, be followed by something a little richer.
The Dover Sole – a full, hearty fish of the firmest white flesh – was drizzled with a pleasing miso brown butter sauce. For steak lovers, the options are far-reaching. The Dry Aged Fillet was an interesting cut – a sleek piece of meat with the smoothest texture which was doused in a fiery housemade horseradish sauce that bubbled with flavour.
The sides, an often neglected section of restaurant menus, turned out to be the real standouts. Go for the creamed spinach with nutmeg, which balances the softest textures with the biggest flavours. Grilled broccoli cooked with black garlic and marcona almonds was also stunning. Triple-fried chips accompanied by a delicious whipped béarnaise was a heart-stopper in all senses.
Cobb Salad made tableside. Photo: Cristian Barnett
Steak at The Colony Grill. Photo: Ola O.Smit
French Toast with Vanilla Ice Cream. Photo: Cristian Barnett
The Colony Grill also delights with its puddings. Rum Baba came with a coconut sorbet that balanced the fantastically aromatic booziness that the sponge cake radiated. Best of all was the French Toast: a hearty block of delicately fried bread that was absolutely addictive, aided by a sweet vanilla ice cream. There is also a charming ice cream sundae menu that allows you to choose your own flavours and toppings – that’ll be for next time’s visit.
If you’re in Mayfair, this is the place to dine.
by Derby Jones
The Colony Grill, 8 Balderton Street, Mayfair, W1K 6TF
For reservations, call: 020 7499 9499