Glass delves into the theme of Art Nouveau in Alexander McQueen’s AW20 menswear collection

ONE of the most fascinating and celebrated qualities of each Alexander McQueen collection is the fact that there is always more to the clothes than what meets the eye. The exquisite patterns are more than just swirls and shapes, they tend to have been inspired by history, art or nature – the trio of themes that find themselves sewn into each collection.

Tailoring in Alexander McQueen AW20 Collection; photo by Chloé Le Drezen

The menswear autumn-winter 2020 collection is no different. From a distance the precise, mechanical tailoring shows the foundation of what Lee Alexander McQueen learned during his time on Savile Row. However, with a twist. Looking at tailoring through the lens of Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts, the suits take on restrained elegance of modernism.

Tailoring in Alexander McQueen AW20 Collection; photo by Adama Jalloh 

The national flower of Scotland, the thistle, has been reconstructed with a touch of art nouveau in jet black with a molten metal ore harness in gold and silver thread worn alongside satin suit trousers creating the perfect symbol of finding beauty in the darkness.

Tailoring in Alexander McQueen AW20 Collection; photo by Chloé Le Drezen

Ivory and black wool were used to create hybrid coats and jackets with further juxtaposition with silver and gold metallic moiré creating the standout suiting of the season. Abstract designs are seen on evening jackets and overcoats gleaming engineered by using silver bullion embroidery – an impressive task executed by the incredible McQueen team proving once again that their eye for detail makes them one of the best houses for craftsmanship.

by Imogen Clark