THE EXPLORATION of William Blake’s work continues to be a well of inspiration for Sarah Burton. Diving deep into the words and art of the English poet and painter, the creative director is particularly fascinated by his illustrations of Dante’s Divine Comedy. Depicting Hell, Purgatory and Paradise, elements of the watercolours have now found themselves in the Alexander McQueen pre-spring-summer 2022 collection.
For this season’s collection, familiar silhouettes make a warmly welcomed return as ballon sleeves, corsets and tailoring re-establish themselves as staple features to the McQueen woman’s aesthetic.
Cropped, deconstructed and fitted pieces juxtapose and unite the looks together while also linking it with the men’s SS22 collection.
Single-breasted tailored suits are finished with silver zip detailing while tuxedos are decorated with satin lapels and an asymmetrical lace drape to balance the meticulous tailoring with some delicate femininity.
A firm favourite in the McQueen ateliers is the use of oyster ruffles that stretch back to the iconic Oyster dress from 2003 and now for SS22, see themselves in skirts and dresses. However, one dress is a particular showstopper.
Shining in coral orange, the corseted dress features a gold, crystal and satin stitch embroidery on the chest and is designed with a sculpted fin skirt in print organza.
With the collection bursting of detailing and bold colours, the use of William Blake’s paintings as prints change the tone helping translate romanticism into the looks. Parts of Beatrice Dressing Dante from the Car (1824) were used in a monotoned jacquard coat, the top of a t-shirt dress and on the cotton poplin of a ruffled skirt taking traditional plain sections and giving them an unexpected English twist.
The collection is stripped back, not overcomplicating its source of inspiration and also not making it the soul of the clothes.
With a lot to leave to the imagination, Alexander McQueen’s pre-SS22 focuses on craftsmanship, thriving off detailing, proportions and attitude, a combination that has been attributed to the British brand since its humble beginnings.
And now for a collection destined for the beginning of a new year, the days ahead are hopefully akin to Dante’s heaven.
by Imogen Clark
All images by Chloe Le Drezen.