INSPIRED by classical and contemporary cinematic heroines such as Marlene Dietrich and Lola in Tom Tykwer’s film, Run Lola Run, London-based designer Marta Jakubowski showcased her SS20 collection at London Fashion Week last night. Jakubowski’s signature minimalist aesthetic presents itself with a new determined take womenswear – both as a concept of power and sensitivity.
Layers are played with as skirts and shirts are wrapped, tied and cinched over trousers, dresses and blazers. With a soundtrack that alternated eclectically between Dietrich’s Sag Mir Wo Die Blumen and Kanye West’s Ghost Town, the runway was an edit of the best looks from eras gone by – slinky slip dresses payed homage to the nineties while high-waisted baggy trousers and cropped jackets featuring statement shoulders referenced the eighties.
Through a colour palette of neutrals, monochromatic lavenders and aquamarine, Jakubowski did not shy away from indulging in drapery – ruffled dresses, layered overcoats and sash-like details on jackets explored alternative boundaries of power dressing.
Through the blending of both contemporary minimalist and classically feminine silhouettes, Jakubowski’s SS20 collection explores the creation, and the redefinition, of female archetypes.
by Mirabella Shahidullah