Astrid Andersen’s AW 14 show at LC:M offered a more covered-up affair than her debut solo show last season – even so, with plenty of expert layering and cropping, the silhouettes remained body conscious to the male form. Moving into autumn winter, the colour palette was decidedly cooler than spring, with black, tan, blue, silver, and grey all on display. The liquid-like hues were further reinforced with the use of fine Italian fabrics and metallic silks giving the collection a definitely fluidity.
Andersen’s collection focused on the juxtaposition of strength and sensitivity, with the light balancing out the dark in the form of heavier pieces in fur, wadded coats and weighty jerseys. Astrid continued her speciality of dressed-down luxury and exceptional sportswear by showcasing lace pieces, oversized motifs glimpses of flesh that we have come to expect from her. The sportswear was of course present, ranging from nuances such as ruched elasticated ankles and cropped trousers, and long shorts, right through to the explicitly sporty, with her trademark oversize pieces and long shorts.
by Joseph Kocharian