At first glance the Maison Martin Margiela design team seems to have ransacked the glory-hole of puckish compulsive collector to build this mesmerising yet overstimulating Spring 2014 – unusual – material triumph harmonised by the brand’s signature split-toe boots and black silk gauze masks.
The oversize draped jackets and vertical tunics shapes underplay to leave room for this hand craft celebration of art and trash – pop and punk. What appears as a shining pailette hoody soon reveals its core made of discarded jewels, soda-can pulls, chains, keys and an array of trinkets. All of a sudden you can find yourself bumping into Gauguin via a green tapestry based coat, or even Frank Lloyd Wright whose architectural textiles are turned into blue and jellow dress – when Mariano Fortuny fabrics scraps are stitched to the white t-shirt – joined by 1950s sailor tattoo inspired flashy embroidery and 1930s brothel scarves.
Combining contrasting inspirations to an infinite colour palette all held by a obsessive craftsmanship the Maison presented us the Haute Couture expressed at the exasperation level necessary to generate art out of trash.
by Laura Rogliano
Images courtesy of style.com