David Koma sets the stage with a goth-country slate which toyed with cinematic seduction and brimmed with (rather) unsettling thinness.
BLUMARINE’s straightforward, on-trend appeal (and attainable price points) continues progressing on a path of subversive femininity for Fall 2025.
For proof, look no further than the label’s gauzy cuts and beach-to-club sexiness that keep hitting its traditional notes, keeping the momentum this season by finding inspiration from the alluring femininities of Italian cinema that possess the imagination long after the reels run out.
You could see the dramatic influence across the punchy palette of blood red and lipstick red against black, dark grey and whites. David Koma also introduced the Sicilian thistle—nuanced and strong in equal measure—which became a core leitmotif for the collection that was illustrated in prints, embroideries and hardware embellishments.
In contrast, the nuances of delicate botany renderings, executed in motifs and embroideries, were solidified in accents of blues and pinks. Across the board, the tonal palette paints a seductive canvas suspended between fluidity and severity.
Because the key to Blumarine’s collections is in the aura itself, Koma’s sensual, goth-like chicness mirrors the gauzy toppers with matching skin-tight trouser options. After the nomination of Nicola Brognano’s successor, the label continues to pursue its sinuous take on aestheticism, which hits the mark for its clientele but had quibbles along the way: a few ultra-thin bodies wobbled against the floor, walking uneasily and using their balance to stay firmly in place.
Put frankly, as fashion’s systemic problem of fetishising the female body continues at an increasingly troubled pace, healthier bodies would have made for a more compelling aftermath here. But more on that next time.
All in all, it’s easy to imagine the cool girls who hang out in Milan’s hot spots wearing these clothes, plus lovely options sprinkled here and there (like the shirts in buoyant silhouettes, with necklines scooped right up), when they want to look cool without making too much effort.
by Chidozie Obasi