SPARKLING under a ceiling of multi-coloured recyclable plastic, designer Francesco Risso showcases Marni’s SS20 collection, titled Act I, at Milan fashion week. Calling us to attention, Marni engaged with the ethical concerns of the fashion industry by painting not dystopian future, but a celebratory one – the marriage of Truman Capote and Ernesto Che Guevara. Marni evokes these figures by creating a union between these two uneven harmonies. Evoking the dramatic ritual of theatre and rebellion, the collection features a constant jumbling of style – formal suits feature vivid colour combinations – teals, reds and yellows along with contrasting patterns and fabrics highlight constant juxtaposition.
Rebelliousness is at the forefront with such a mixing of worlds – the boxy cuts of military-esque jackets are infused with a playful slant through floral printed shits and camoflauge motifs.
With reference to tropical expeditions, looks feature classic compact knits, fitted polos with popped collars and vintage tapered trousers. Oversized and detailed hats are created from garbage by artist Shalva Nikvashvili, recalling a sense of ritual and modernity at the same time.
By referencing two historically vocal and radical individuals, Act I reminds us to reconsider our presence in the world, to vocalise our beliefs and to embrace a sense of rebellion.
by Mirabella Shahidullah