In a shift that sees designers gravitating towards a newfound ease, the label’s SS25 collection questions the modern age with a tongue-in-cheek vocabulary.
MASSIMO Giorgetti earned his stripes as a designer trafficking in pretty elemental functional wear—knitwear, tees, throw-on garb. Judging by his latest MSGM collection, that narrative is in dire need of an update. For one thing, there’s no sartorial formality in his Spring 2025 collection (though he is making suits for men). For another, Giorgetti’s take on what constitutes ease in fashion seems to have sweetly grown alongside his shoppers.
There’s a more tongue-in-cheek vocabulary at work. “Architecture, art and the unwavering power of collaboration are key elements close to MSGM’s oeuvre, and they’re dear to me as well because it’s only with the like of great minds that big visions happen,” the designer told GLASS backstage at his show.
“I want people to feel both strength and ease in my collections,” he continues, expanding on the category of wardrobe offerings he deems stand out the most this season. “There’s a beautiful dress in the women’s arena,” Giorgetti enthused.
“It’s a knitwear gown in viscose and inlaid silk with a yellow wave motif on the side, which I find to be extremely versatile and chic; on the menswear front, I designed a look that epitomises a newfound practicality at the brand, composed by a beige trouser teamed, in turn, with a breezy topper that features the sun, the boats and the beach as key elements.”
Take, for example, this season’s variety of silky structured pieces for men, such as a sharp blazer worn over a finely sculpted topper or a simple tunic dress with invisible stitch detail along the hem and collar. Very Gen Z and modernistically appealing, these—just the kind of thing a boy and a girl who used to wear ultra-wide tailored pants to a summer rave, now puts on when heading over to a quiet gathering with comrades.
This season’s fabrics and motifs become dresses, owing a debt to the Italian heritage of Giorgetti: they give new light to the harmonious watercolour palettes, which reminisce the likes of carefree paintings in the warm summer afternoons of the designer’s childhood.
“When I grew up admiring fashion, there were a lot of memories that I wanted to pour into one of my collections: from the soundtrack to the set design, these clothes feel dear to me, and I wanted them to feel as an escape,” Giorgetti detailed.
There was a nice textural quality to these clothes—a rough hand to the tailoring and lightly-sewn feel to other pieces—that Giorgetti juxtaposed with typically fine casual tailoring. Giorgetti tends to defer to traditional menswear silhouettes, but he puts his own stamp on staples by giving them a playful quality.
As a designer, he’s very attuned to the present—with clothes that don’t feel fussy, and that’s their strength.
by Chidozie Obasi