Paris Menswear SS15: Cerruti 1881

Cerruti 1881 skipped nimbly along a thin line between the urbane and the urban yesterday in Paris. With a copacetic flow of trendy forms, patterns and strong colours, not altogether feminine but not classically masculine either, Cerruti’s creative chief Aldo Maria Camillo made sure it was deeply rooted in modernity. The more he focused on this, it seemed, the more each item ensured a wide appeal, half formal, half sub-formal, which is why you’ll find prototypical double-breasted jackets paired with appealing bohemian pattern frenzy shirts and galumphing ever-omnipresent sandals.

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The dapper jackets and longer coats continued, sweaters, not too remarkable but likeably enough nonetheless, and some plays on blouson jackets were the mainstays, and succeeded in cohering the collection with quality. What was most interesting was the choice of finishing off, or maybe it was starting, a fair few of the looks with baggy shorts because generally it worked remarkably well, certainly so for a smart spring summer. Blocking colours superlatively was key, though the off-duty aesthetic may have disgruntled some, colour choice made it feel dressed up to the nines, from swanky organic ochres to deep berry reds to blacks on blacks.

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Though, beyond doubt, the majority of the “coming round the mountain” plaids towards the end completely quashed any trace of luxury euro-esteemed formalwear. All-important details were on point however, as was the collection as a whole, and Glass can definitively think of a few occasions when we would be very happy to be wearing a number of Camillo’s SS15 creations.

by Liam Feltham

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