ACNE STUDIOS showcased its women’s autumn-winter 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week, where the Swedish brand delved into all things sculptural and futuristic.
For their latest season, Acne Studios delved into the notion of a ‘fast woman’ as they reimagined silhouettes and fabrications characteristic of their well-known aesthetic, such as denim and leather with a raw edge.
The collection saw typical feminine silhouettes portray an assertive attitude as faux fur, elegant handbags, and the classic black dress are reimagined.
“I’ve always been drawn to leather and denim. It’s the spirit of Acne Studios. One of our first collections in the late 90s was called ‘leather and denim’; two things that belong together. This season, we’ve created a powerful leather and denim woman. I’ve always related to clothing through subcultural movements.
Denim and leather can transcend genre and subcultures – from punk to S&M. When you want to feel tough you gravitate towards leather and denim; it’s like armour. It always feels right. An empowering safety zone,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
The collection predominantly utilised a neutral colour palette with hues of brown and black pronounced. To add a hint of enticement amongst the subtleties were shades of flame orange, green and blue.
The silhouettes were elongated as proportions were manipulated into shrunken or stretched outlines, and oversized shearling walked the runway accompanied by tapered tailoring.
A ‘Lampshade’ dress grabbed attention as boning created a couture dress silhouette with its underlay outwardly exposed. In parallel, ribbed Henley jerseys redefine simple undergarments into elevated outer pieces.
Fabrication saw skin-tight nappa while couture-like bold silhouettes imitating the female form as sculptured armour materialised from moulded leather. Denim showcased mechanical nuance with techniques of oil-coating and rust-inspired treatments, and Icelandic sheepskin offered warmth alongside the essence of rawness innate to Acne Studios.
Bike culture is also touched upon through bandana prints reworked into striking angels and Renaissance paintings.
As for accessories, the Bowlina bag is redefined this season with a metal plaque available in various sizes such as the weekender, medium and micro. The collection also sees the Multi-pocket toolbag reappear in denim-coated leather and a pearlescent oyster and brown coating.
Eyewear displayed a mirrored effect in black and rose gold, enhancing the mechanical nature of the collection and mesh boots and pumps elevated while creating a towering silhouette, finalising the looks.
by Nicole Pereira