VALENTINO, since 2008 the result of a design duo acclaimed for stylish synergy, is now a one-man show. Pier Paulo Piccioli is that man – the sole creative director whose partner in cloth since around about the millennium was Maria Grazia Chiuri, now the creative director of Dior. This puts both of the designers, who parted ways entirely amicably, in positions of great importance in the industry – atop two of fashion’s eminent luxury houses.
Alone in his atelier, Piccioli didn’t lose his – or the brand’s – way. Producing gowns with gravitas in grandeur the designer presented just what modern day Valentino needs, a distinctly European though neither Italian, French, Germanic, or what have you, hold on costuming the darling buds of the jet-set. Confident pinks pervaded SS17 with a romance showing Piccioli has not become disillusioned in his solitary rule. Fine-spun to the max, each piece took on certain classic codes to varying degrees, from renaissance rekindling’s in beautiful lace to the more basic billows of Valentino gown vying to find its way onto a red carpet asap.
Not entirely exciting, let’s be frank here, but appealing all the while, SS17 was more about Piccioli finding his own two feet at Valentino. In future, chances are he’ll probably stride into his own direction a lot more vibrantly.
by Livia Feltham
Images courtesy of Valentino