AFTER last season’s runway show that was held in a drive-thru, the pressure was on for design duo Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer to one-up arguably the show of Paris Fashion Week. Dedicating the previous collection to the night, Coperni’s spring-summer 2022 looks at the light.
Inspired by nature, hemp is at the core of the clothing taking the thrilling characteristic of its speed to grow as well as its healing properties and translating it into clothing.
The collection, titled Spring Summer 2033, together with the focus on hemp, breathes new life into the brand as they look forward to what they want Coperni to become. Eco-conscious and aware of the troubles and hardships many faced recently, it is fresh, realistic optimism that Meyer and Vaillant want to focus on. It is time to dream big.
The label, founded in 2013, has gained momentum for its elevated tailoring and minimalistic pieces causing waves of excitement across the industry and consumers, cementing itself as a cult brand. This season, and with the whispers questioning what is next in the background, more prints are introduced playing a symphony with materials to take us to unexpected places visually.
Psychedelic shapes, the use of shells and patchwork print depicting suns, woman and sea creatures come together to illustrate the beauty of ambiguity on classic fabrics such as chiffon and silk.
This idea of freedom and nature are further found in denim cargo pants, long skirts and cowboy boots promising exploration, while low-waists and cropped tops reference the hugely popular Y2k aesthetic trend.
Alluding to a slightly more masculine feel, tailoring has been deconstructed in jackets and trousers helping the clothing translate fluidly throughout the collection creating an overall tone of casual elegance – something we all are trying to figure out post-pandemic.
Compared to the previous seasons, there is definitely a more relaxed approach to design. Maybe it is a consequence of staying at home due to lockdowns, or possibly just an investigation into a new territory however each piece is meticulously thought-through.
The classic Swipe bag looks like it is melting referencing Salvador Dali’s Melting Clock and jewellery debuts for the first time at Coperni. In collaboration with London-based Alan Crocetti, rings, earrings, anklets and necklaces continue this notion of fantasy playing with silver and juxtaposing it with colourful gems.
The going-green intentions are there, and for this brand to achieve longevity it is a clear and necessary step to take forward. In terms of clothing, the creative directors clearly want us to dream and let go of the past, the summer of love comes to mind when seeing the collection. If that is the case then, dust off your cargo pants and grab your bikini and breath.
by Imogen Clark