TAKING grandpa chic to a whole new level, Kenzo’s AW18 collection tapped into another generation for their menswear inspiration. High waisted checked trousers and cropped sweater vests opened Kenzo’s first mixed gender show. Their signature use of audacious colours is notable from the off. Clashing acid yellows and primary blue is juxtaposed with more muted tones of brown and beige. Overcoats have been updated with raglan sleeves and racing stripes.
Bucket hats and embroidered side bags scream goofy tourist, but with clever use of materials, Kenzo has managed to make the uncool cool. Anoraks and trench coats in a variety of colours radiate energy, with the later introduction of outlandish animal prints; we are reminded of their trademarks. Floral printed chiffon partnered with a tailored trouser creates a conflict between masculinity and femininity.
With a snappy transition into womenswear, a unique choice in vintage horror and oriental dragon prints begin to shape the collection. Lightweight dresses and emphasised bra straps contrast with boxy, oversized coats. Continuing with similar colours as the menswear, patent leather and Borg jackets allow dimension.
An all-over floral print simplifies as the collection develops. Dress cuts become more advanced, playing with asymmetric fastenings and ruffles. With marigold style gloves and small handbags, models become synonymous with the Stepford Wives. Ingenious use of embellishment and materials marry harmoniously to elevate the housewife look to high fashion. With the finale being extravagant chiffon and sequin dresses, it definitely left us wanting more.
by Todd Burns
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