TRAVELLING was the theme and travel he did. For Autumn Winter 2020, designer Craig Green showed his menswear collection across the Channel in Paris, for the first time since his first on schedule show as part of the Fashion East MAN initiative back in 2013. His departure from the London Fashion Week Men’s schedule left his devotees in the British capital saddened. Since his first solo show in 2015, Green has gained the reputation as one to watch in London. However, on fresh Parisian soil, Green’s collection was even stronger than in years previously.
As expected there were toggles and zips, drawstrings and shoelaces, all contributing to Green’s characteristically utilitarian aesthetic. His signature quilting was adapted with stitching that created patterns resembling road maps. Journey and growth were key themes to take away from the collection, with garments that not only protected but also comforted.
Flat horizontal strips were stacked to create collapsible structures – much like venetian blinds – that opened and closed with the pull of a toggle. The models wore hybrid fisherman hats that complimented the net-like tabards and headpieces that appeared later in the show. Made from rubber tubing they bounced to the rhythm of the models footsteps, creating the illusion of a “packaged person.”
A natural and somewhat muted colour pallet dominated the collection, with burnt orange and khaki green, burgundy and mustard yellow – quite conflicting to Green’s previous use of acid neon in past collections. Similar hues appeared on trainers made in collaboration with Adidas.
T-shirts, jeans and raincoats were printed with enlarged floral motifs, and gathered satin adorned the front of tent-like structures. The collection as a whole combined function with abstraction, speaking to those who merely want to wear Craig Green and to those who want to witness a spectacle.
by Augustine Hammond
Images: nowfashion.com