COMME Des Garçons Homme Plus took us way back in time – 65 million years in fact – with their latest collection. Extravagant headwear worthy of being props in Jurassic Park and a heavy use of print set the tone of the collection, but what started to be an assortment of playfulness and intensity soon evolved to become delicate through ingenious use of colour, cut and materials.
Rei Kawakubo’s ethos of contemporary pattern cutting techniques, a trademark in previous Comme Des Garçons designs, is visible throughout the collection. Classic silhouettes and tailoring have been revisited and refined. Asymmetric double breasted coats and worker jackets complemented staggered hemlines, juxtaposed with rounded balloon trousers and curved seams.
Being a notable trend this season, a profound use of excessive prints in earthy, cold colours clashed against burnt oranges and yellows. Tones of white and pastels brought femininity, which is emphasised by the womenswear dress cuts and styling, disrupted with monochrome geometric prints reflecting the industrial surroundings.
by Todd Burns