TRUE to form, the brand’s Fall 2025 outing toasts the poised and real by finessing the obvious.
One of the more surprising decisions in the past months’ trend merry-go-round was the ousting and mixing of quintessential fashion; such was replaced by a take on quasi-craftsy offerings able to deliver fine work by way of both retail and editorial accounts.
The usual Pitti insiders are people for whom scorching temperatures are no excuse for eschewing their rigorously knotted ties. What they made of MM6 Maison Margiela’s AW25 collection, which showed a punkishly-demure take on tailoring inside a glass box, we’ll probably never know. Very few eventually will, given how traditionalism is a du jour creative fixture across Tuscany’s capital.
MM6 Maison Margiela AW25
MM6 Maison Margiela AW25
MM6 Maison Margiela AW25
Pitti might have shaken the label of its usual comfort zone, but in the end it didn’t. In a palette of blacks with foray into deliveries of plums, lapis and chalks, the brand brought forth what it described as an exercise in masculine dressing using Miles Diver as a filter.
Staying true to its essence, there was no major stint on glamour—Parallels and opposites reigned supreme throughout, comprising tailoring that met sensuality, excess and soberness too (the unexpected high note?
MM6 Maison Margiela AW25
MM6 Maison Margiela AW25
A touch of faux mink for an edgier finishing effect). Which brings us to the slew of terrific volumes, like the pagoda shoulders and earthy textures that kept things outlandish and au courant in equal measure.
Also of note were the elegantly streamlined knits, looking at a new restraint that proves to be a savvy move to have dialed down for a collection dubbed “gritty couture.” This approach gives a point of difference in a crowded retail space that wasn’t anywhere near as cheek-by-jowl years back.
MM6 Maison Margiela AW25
MM6 Maison Margiela AW25
MM6 Maison Margiela AW25
As far as it goes, there’s no stripping Margiela out of Margiela, but the dusky atmosphere did at least allow the brand’s strengths to come to the fore. If its square-toed spazzolato loafers were too much, the found jewelry and modular gloves offered a more palatable dose of cute. What we’d like to see more: those structured blazers with a twist (one came with a clever sculpted waistline), and another one – or three – of those expertly tailored suits.
by Chidozie Obasi