SWISS brand, Richard Mille, which is known for its technical innovation and watchmaking excellence, is back with further finesse with the launch of its new RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire collection—and the intricate cases that require over 1,000 hours of machining.
The story starts almost ten years ago when Richard Mille chose to design watches with cases made entirely of coloured sapphire, and fast-forward to this collection that features four new versions, including one in lilac (a brand-new shade), and fresh interpretations of the gem-set dial.
The RM 07-02 Automatic Gem-Set Green Sapphire
Expect an ultra-clean design combined with the mechanical complexity of fine watchmaking, and the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire timepieces pay homage to the first iteration by incorporating the brand’s signature watchmaking techniques.
At the heart of this crystalline cocoon is an alluring dial that draws the eye with perfectly precise and symmetrical geometric shapes, highlighting the art of the master gem-setter. Here, the stones catch the light to enhance every facet of the sapphire case, decorating the dial, bezel and flange, plus a cabochon embellishes the crown.
Precious stones include diamonds, blue sapphires and vibrant yellow sapphires and these sit alongside ornamental gems such as orange spessartite, white agate or opal, and various shades of green tsavorite, chrysoprase and malachite.
Behind the stones lies the CRMA5 in-house skeletonised automatic movement that displays the hours and minutes and is wound by a variable-geometry rotor (the compact calibre has a power reserve of approximately 50 hours). The baseplate and bridges, that are crafted from either red or white gold are micro blasted and chamfered by hand, complete with fine finishes and detailing to further enhance this model.
The RM 07-02 Automatic Lilac Sapphire
Of course, working with sapphire is notoriously challenging as it doesn’t tolerate even the slightest approximation, particularly during cutting, and so, creating a case requires over 1,000 hours of machining, of which 430 hours are devoted to preforming the case parts and 350 hours reserved for polishing it.
The RM 07-02 Automatic Gem-Set pink sapphire
The complexities don’t stop there, as producing coloured sapphires is highly intricate and involves the carefully incorporating metal oxides into the material’s crystalline lattice—and they’re sensitive to the heating and growth process. And so, developing a new shade like lilac involves a host of trials before the exact shade meets the exacting RM standards.
The setting of the gems displays the brands unwaving attention to detail as a laser is required to perform the mitraillage, that is drilling holes for the stones and must be accurate to the nearest micron. Prongs in hand-polished gold, made separately, are then inserted, creating the multiple settings that hold a graceful row of diamonds. They’re a true testament to craftsmanship.
by Felicity Carter
The RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire collection is comprised of seven timepieces for each of the four versions: gem-set pink sapphire, lilac sapphire, green sapphire and gem-set green sapphire. See more on richardmille.com.