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When thinking of Greece, my mind has always wandered to the famous islands such as Santorini and Rhodes, and with that all the clichés quickly surface, filling in the idyllic picture in my mind. Apart from the islands, the second most popular player in the Grecian tourist path is Athens, where my journey in the Mediterranean begins as I fly into the international airport. It was to be a fleeting stopover, however, as Costas, our handsome chauffeur, quickly ushered us out of the airport and into a three-hour drive to Costa Navarino in Messinia.
Messinia sits on the southern coast of Greece – south-west of Athens – with a rugged coastline that overlooks the Mediterranean Sea. This region is mostly agricultural land and slips quietly under the tourist radar despite its famous export, the Kalamata olive, proudly being grown just a short drive from where we were headed.
After a lengthy but comfortable drive to the Navarino dunes, during which I can vaguely remember seeing parched landscapes with cacti a plenty, mixed with the smell of humid air, we arrived at a landscape transformed into not one, but two sprawling five star hotels, clad in a sea of light marble and surrounded by acres of manicured gardens and golf courses. There was no time to luxuriate in my the poolside room however, as shortly after I’d dropped my luggage it was time for a treatment at the spa.
I was unsure if overnight travel followed by a treatment was a good idea until I met Helena my therapist for the morning. Anazoe Spa offers classic style treatments based on ancient Greek practices, with a heavy accent on using local herbs grown around the grounds of the hotel. I opted for one of three signature treatments, the Messinian Salt and Honey Scrub, that left me luxuriously soft and my mood elevated to a serene daze ready to sleep into the middle of the day. It felt a slight crime to miss the morning sun but the pile of pillows back in my room overtook the allure of a poolside nap, and this massage-induced calm took me into a deep and peaceful sleep.
Costa Navarino is split between The Westin (the family-friendly arm) and its luxurious sister The Romanos. Guests are free to wander between the two and are encouraged to sample an almost complete range of restaurants, which includes Japanese, Sicilian and American – without forgetting Mediterranean cuisine. Once you arrive, it becomes clear that there’s little need for guests to leave the grounds as all your needs will be catered for – even if you’re intending to play a round of golf or join the daily philosophical walks to the ancient olive tree at the edge of the grounds.
Waking for lunch, and feeling slightly disorientated, I was grateful for a golf car picking me up and escorting me to an informal meze style lunch of tender and deliciously moreish squid, complemented by Costa Navarino’s 1827 organic Chardonnay and locally grown olives. Hopes of avoiding alcohol and overeating quickly skipped away, leaving me in devilish hands.
Hedonistic opportunities were sprung upon me all afternoon in the form of irresistible baklavas in many varieties and even more sampling of Costa Navarino’s wine. Before I could think twice, the day had slipped into evening and before what felt like very little time had elapsed I was sitting back at the dinner table, this time at Costa Navarino’s Taverna.
The continuous stream of dishes began with Lagana, a local bread that I can only compare to a tasty cross between doughy bread and savoury churros, then plates of varying delights descended on our table and kept coming. The taramosalata was so good that it has since dissuaded me from buying any shop-bought variety – to compare would be an injustice – and the only criticism would be the copious amounts of pitta that needed to be consumed as a mere vehicle for this light, creamy delight.
From there onwards I can recall dishes of equally tasty marinated cod rounded off with Navarino’s 1827 Cabernet Sauvignon and locally made Greek yoghurt. I fell asleep early, full and satisfied.
Like many guests who I’m sure had over-indulged – and rightly so – the night before, the next morning I booked into a pilates class followed by aqua aerobics, which set me up for the day ahead. I spent the rest of the day cycling around the sand dunes towards Voidokilia, a coved beach just a few kilometres from The Westin that attracts hotel guests and locals alike with its golden sands and shallow waters.
The highlight of my visit came later that afternoon in the open-air Barbouni Restaurant – which translates to Red Mullet, a valued fish in Greek history – which sits between the two hotels at the edge of the beach which unites the two. Fresh fish is served all day, cooked simply and complemented with ice cool white wine and light Greek salads. The pleated silk-like ceiling, designed by Athenian architects K-Studio, swished and rippled with the sea breeze and made sitting out in the midday sun even more pleasurably memorable.
by Stephanie Clair
Rates at the two hotels at Navarino Dunes, start from: The Westin Resort Costa Navarino: from €180 (Infinity Room: from €240) and The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort from €250.
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Aegean Airlines offers daily flights from London Heathrow and London Gatwick to Athens. For more information please visit their site