THE DEBUT of a new luxury hotel into the London hospitality scene is always an occasion to celebrate. And Brasserie Angelica at The Newman on the same-named street in Fitzrovia deserves getting the bunting out for.
Evoking 1920s style through a northern European and specifically Bloomsbury Group lens, this hotel isn’t louche London glitz but restrained elegance. These elements are not obviously easy to reference and blend for a coherent look, but are beautifully and sophisticatedly executed here on the corner of Goodge and Newman Streets.
I had previously had an early preview of the hotel having been to a pre-opening event in one of the meeting rooms – the Talland room named after Bloomsbury group author Virginia Woolf’s Cornish retreat – on the lower ground floor where I was most impressed by The Newman’s understated sleek glamour.
Brasserie Angelica. Photograph: Charlie McKay
Designed by Lind + Almond for owners Kinsfolk & Co, The Newman celebrates and reflects the art deco and Victorian echoes of Fitzrovia’s literary and artistic history – in particular the Bloomsbury group and the pioneering art collector Nancy Cunard, for instance.
I haven’t stayed or viewed any of the suites but from looking at the website, they also gleam with glamour too.
On the ground floor of the hotel is Brasserie Angelica – open all day – which also has its separate entrance from the street to encourage locals to drop into for a meal or a drink to encourage a friendly neighbourhood vibe.
Sandwich trolley at Brasserie Angelica. Photograph: Charlie McKay
The restaurant continues the design theme and style of the rest of the hotel – decorated in an understated colour palette. Leather bolsters and cushion with woven Bottega Veneta intrecciato-style leather line its banquette seats while grained and curved woods wrap the space.
Brasserie Angelica’s executive chef is Australian Christian Turner previously at the Corbin & King group – working at the Colbert and The Beaumont Hotel and ex head chef of the Delaunay and their influences shine through the menu and presentation.
We were intrigued to discover the Northern European-influenced – “fashionably long” menu. Using high quality seasonally led ingredients from London suppliers and UK producers and featuring smoking (there is a wood fire) and curing culinary techniques.
Brasserie Angelica starters. Photograph: Charlie McKay
There is a sandwich trolley which is rolled out at lunchtime which sounds lots of tasty fun which we didn’t experience as we were dining in the evening.
But how would Brasserie Angelica cater for my vegetarianism and my friend’s gluten-free requirements? Rather well, in fact. My companion enjoyed the delicious English Champagne (I don’t drink) which she declared very “easy drinking”. Luckily for me there were lots of excellent vegetable starters from the wood fire menu – it was hard to choose – as well as a wide range of gluten-free options. My friend particularly liked the gluten-free bread.
Brasserie Angelica Cured pork belly. Photograph: Charlie McKay
I began with the Winter endive salad, grilled pear, walnuts, Danish blue cheese with Red cabbage starter with crunchy sweet, candied nuts and was a lovely and delicious balance of flavours and textures. My friend pronounced the Gravadlax with pickled cucumber salad, mustard sauce to start followed by grass-fed sirloin with bone marrow gravy really good.
The smoky creamy charred aubergine with crispy artichoke hearts dressed with yoghurt, lemon oil, pinenuts was a very satisfying main course.
Brasserie Angelica cardamom bun. Photograph: Charlie McKay
For dessert, I had the Scandinavian-inspired cinnamon doughnut served with vanilla ice cream, hot chocolate sauce, almonds, while my friend enjoyed the crème caramel and Armagnac prunes served with toasted brioche – both served with very generous portions, there are no skimping on servings here – were very satisfying to conclude the outstanding meal in this stylish and welcoming setting, all elevated by the solicitous and charming staff. And at the end of our evening, we both agreed that The Angelica Brasserie is a very welcome dining addition to the neighbourhood.
by Caroline Simpson
Brasserie Angelica, The Newman Hotel, 49 Newman Street, London, W1T 3EB