Between commercially-appetible offerings and tradition-led thinking, Spain’s emerging talents are focused on the present, with a promising sight on the future.
MADRID, SPAIN – Nothing can feel easier than a plethora of fashion shows melded under one roof, where buyers and insiders roam around with restless tempo to find the next “It momentum.”
But as the fashion industry’s not-so-easy pursuits to plod through the system’s downturns continue at an increasingly ferocious pace, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid was a welcome respite amid Europe’s offerings this season: we already knew about the highly acclaimed cultural stuff one can breathe and feel across the cailles (English, streets), but the fashion isn’t a pool where one would normally dip into.
For autumn-winter 2025, though, designers went further. They took elements from regional dresses and from all over the world and blended them together. It’s safe to say that traces of original styles remained, and even then one couldn’t be sure if the patterns of breezy staples on the hems of a full cotton-patterned skirt evoked a Sevillana or the fringed pleats of a fitted skirt with a peplum over referenced something specific. So these designers were both voyagers and collectors.
Valentina Suárez-Zuloaga
Valentina Suárez-Zuloaga, Creative Director of MBFWMadrid, concurs. “Taking on the creative direction of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid is an exciting challenge,” she opines with excitement. “What excites me the most is the opportunity to showcase this runway as an international benchmark, not just a fashion platform.” Suárez-Zuloaga wants MBFWMadrid to be a true reflection of Spanish creativity at its finest, with a diverse and enriching program that serves both established designers and emerging talent.
“My goal is to elevate the platform to a more global level without losing its identity,” she says, adding that, “Spain has a unique cultural and artistic richness that should have a stronger presence on the international stage. We will work towards greater visibility in strategic markets and collaborations with other events to reach new audiences.”
She believes it’s essential to strengthen ties with the art, gastronomy, and technology industries, integrating MBFWMadrid into a much broader creative ecosystem. “I believe that the resilience and ability of Spanish designers to reinvent themselves are key factors, and we will see this firsthand at MBFWMadrid. We are witnessing brands that are committed to sustainability, more flexible business models, and innovative collaborations that allow them to remain competitive.”
However, there are still significant challenges, such as sustainable local production, craftsmanship, and new ways of reaching the public. “Spanish fashion has immense potential, but it needs a stronger ecosystem for brands to grow and establish themselves. Having talented designers is not enough; we need infrastructure to support their commercial and international development.”
One of the biggest challenges noted by Suárez-Zuloaga, is the lack of investment in the fashion industry as a strategic sector. “Creativity is a powerful economic driver, but it is still not fully recognized as such within the country’s industrial and economic policies. At MBFWMadrid, we want to reinforce the message that fashion is not just about aesthetics—it is a key sector in terms of employment, innovation, and cultural impact.” That’s why initiatives like the initiative’s EGO platform are so important—not only do they introduce new brands, but they also provide visibility and tools for them to grow in the global market.
“In the coming editions, I would love to see MBFWMadrid become a European reference with a strong and distinctive identity. My goal is to consolidate its national and international impact. Additionally, I want sustainability and craftsmanship to become ingrained values within our runway,” she concludes, stating how “Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid should be a beacon of creativity and evolution for Spanish fashion.”
Baro Lucas AW25
Baro Lucas AW25
Baro Lucas AW25
Take Baro Lucas, for instance: following a pattern of purity and simplicity, based on the techniques of traditional tailoring, the brand presented a collection that appeared translated into exquisite pieces, whose silhouettes are drawn with clean and sinuous cuts, unexpected details and a sober colouring that flows between sand, grey, green, gold and ochre to finish with black, the firm’s hallmark.
Mans AW25
Mans AW25
Mans AW25
Speaking of hallmark styles, the designer Jaime Álvarez of Mans provided many with a pool of them from early on, when he discovered his passion for different artistic disciplines. His project, Mans, which he founded after finishing Fashion Design in 2017 at the Istituto Europeo di Design, Madrid, has now unleashed as a ready-to-wear brand in search of new artisanal tailoring, influenced both by the ateliers of Savile Row, as well as by Japanese pattern making.
Piedro del Hierro AW25
Piedro del Hierro AW25
Piedro del Hierro AW25
Strong design codes were also present in Piedro del Hierro’s outing, where the vein of men’s tailoring is applied to women’s garments, confronting them such as the dinner jacket with straight, flare or even skinny trousers. This deconstruction became more feminine throughout the collection, also palpable in déshabillé or half-dressed garments.
Contrast is visible throughout, playing on trompe l’oeil with T-shirts that replace cotton with transparent wool or the exchange of collars and ties – in stripes and polka dots – to play on the effect of false appearances.
Isabel Sanchis AW25
Isabel Sanchis AW25
Isabel Sanchis AW25
On a similar note, Isabel Sanchis and Paula Maiques based their collection mainly on the combination and union of ready-to-wear fashion with couture pieces, finding elements of jeans and streetwear in much more elaborate pieces from mini dresses to couture designs.
Simorra AW25
Simorra AW25
Alex Rivière AW25
Alex Rivière AW25
A design that takes a timeless edge at Simorra, whose team conceives fashion as a vehicle for creative expression through the manipulation of materials. Alex Rivière looked at the timeless beauty and strength of female resilience and creativity, capturing the spirit of women who have influenced the brand in countless ways. At the heart of it lies a deep reverence for the power of art to inspire, transform and endure.
by Chidozie Obasi