FLORENCE, ITALY — Consistent timelessness can be kind of a bore. Oh, woollen classics delivered in lieu of performance wear? Shocker. What, pinstripe suiting floating over monk straps that read as both functional and haute? Well, duh. Insert your own example of prosaically predictable offerings in some of this season’s collections.
More specifically, the qualm here had to do with silhouettes, which weren’t daring enough to make much of an impact as the menswear rounds began to unfold in Florence. That tentativeness was made up for, rather considerably, by designers’ more nimble skill with materials, with standouts encompassing knitwear, nylon and refined yarns. But on the whole, these collections came off a little shy, as clothes riffed on tradition and returned to form as an antidote to the too-muchness of their French counterparts.
Pitti Uomo 109
As the Pitti Uomo 109 edition affirms, designers aren’t up to anything revolutionary, but they’re making plenty of winning pieces; overall, they offer a wink at modern trends without being held captive by them. To wit: the colour-blocked staples scattered across Florence’s Fortezza da Basso (home to most of the brands on the fair’s schedule) feel timely yet evergreen, while structured blazers detailed with brooches come in distinctly enough to feel special – hard to imagine going out of style. Trousers also play to these brands’ strengths, and the Fall collections serve up a few new staples, alongside fresh iterations of instant classics proposed season after season.
Mainly, what I sense these designers have been contemplating is a care for construction and for ways of using fine detail in the making of their clothes, emphasising and de-volumizing the codes seen in traditional menswear.
The resulting offerings are so clean and minimal that they almost forewarn against making an impression. But they do reward scrutiny. Pitti’s trend pool has developed a steady slew of signatures in dense yet ultralight materials, and creatives’ use of them gives even a casual garment like a polo or a shirt a matter-of-fact, substantiality, along with a dash of aloofness.
Take, for example, the variety of linen and other breezy textiles that grow these pieces into a full wardrobe of essentially casual clothes. There’s something about even the simplest tee in this season’s collections – such as the softly coloured mohairs or painstakingly cut jackets – that expresses the insouciant attitude of the original essential piece.
Simply put, these are clothes meant to be worn without thinking about them: those checks and rigorous patterns have been on sale for a while now, and among the average crowd—where demand shows no signs of abating—these collections seem to have been designed using the same formula that made them winners throughout the years. In place of the system’s former toughness are neutral jackets and a sports-driven inflection; rather than feminised proportions, there is a key focus on fit and volume.
And as always with Pitti, the collections were studded with top-notch fabrications and the kind of pieces you wear to the point of organic disintegration.
One fresh idea creatives introduced was a wear-anywhere code of dressing with a slouchy feel, though designers didn’t do much to advance their respective signatures. That said, cotton jerseys and roomier pieces will find plenty of takers, just as the uncluttered sense of line was influenced by a willingness to refine and relax the take on urbanity. Elsewhere, staples were well cut – an element that made for a winsome, sharp finishing touch.
All in all, it takes a lot of confidence for a new-gen designer to risk boredom in pursuit of innovation. Still, better to give up on the bad and acknowledge what’s good here: no-brainer toppers and separates, ditching all manner of excess in favour of ease and utter comfort.
GUESS Jeans
GUESS Jeans’ collection is one such example. “The first couple of seasons here at Pitti Uomo were all about air-wash technology, which is still present throughout everything, but it’s time to evolve the conversation: making it a little more about brand DNA and design,” Nicolai Marciano, Design Director at the line, tells GLASS backstage. “For me, it was also about introducing some new categories: footwear and eyewear, which we’re excited to launch.”
The brand was founded without accessories, with a keen focus on clothing. “We’re also excited about introducing new categories through the Guess Jeans lens,” Marciano says. “Obviously, Guess does a lot of them, but we wanted to be more thoughtful and precise, given that it’s the first time we’re doing accessories that really aim at a younger demographic. I think the collection has grown a lot. Fabrics, fabrications and fits – we’re getting to understand what the consumer wants, what needs improvement, what we can do more of and what we need less of. So it’s good.”
GUESS Jeans
GUESS Jeans
Season to season, the line continues calibrating its vision of what its history signifies while adapting to who its target audience truly embodies. “It’s all about introducing a new customer to our ecosystem,” reflects Marciano. “The DNA started super strict—very tight, core to the roots of archive Guess, which was stonewashed denim: simple, key classic archetypes. Now, in terms of fabrication, colour, treatment and texture, it’s becoming much more of a full lifestyle offer.”
The brand is evolving its personality, having started from a core place, it’s now stretching further. “It’s been a good journey,” says Marciano, even as he acknowledges that “sales are tough everywhere—for our main part of the business and for every business. It’s not an easy time in general, but thankfully we have a very strong foundation as a company.” The brand has shown significant growth, with international opportunities expanding across India and Southeast Asia. “There are some really exciting new ones we’re working on, but it’s a steady, consistent process,” he reflects. “Of course, it can always be better, but we’re happy with the results.”
GUESS Jeans
Denim remains the key focus of the collection, with outerwear also winning the race. “We’re introducing a new nylon quality that you’ll see across key outerwear pieces: it has a nice crinkle effect. We’ve changed it from the first few seasons into something that feels a bit more technical and luxurious to the touch,” he says. Introducing new branding on outerwear has also been imperative for the design team. “For me, at least, that’s been one of the bigger developments,” Marciano concludes. “California’s landscape was a real inspiration – we want to reach the level of its lifestyle. It’s workwear- and outdoor-inspired.”
Scandinavian Manifesto
In spite of the world’s crisis hitting at an increasingly ferocious pace, Sofie Dolva, Director at the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF), maintains a positive mindset. “The Scandinavian Manifesto has a whole new vibe this season, and I see both newness and tradition,” she says. “We’ve tried to keep it more commercial and approachable, adapting to the current market situation. We always strive to curate like-minded brands that fit together: it’s not just eleven of the same label. We choose designers who are close to our heart and community, and who consistently receive strong feedback at CIFF. Each season, we gather extensive input from buyers to understand what they’re really looking for.”
Scandinavian Manifesto
This season, Dolva has curated designers appealing to a broader audience, reflected in the upcoming edition of CIFF. “In this climate, consumers are demanding more than just a collection,” she explains, citing market saturation. “They need to really feel the brand. There has to be more depth – immersive experiences that foster genuine connection. Brands need to work closely with retailers, becoming partners, creating excitement and inspiration, especially in brick-and-mortar spaces.”
Dolva adds that brands performing well are those that collaborate closely with retailers and arrive with a strong, holistic offering – not just a push of a collection. “They’re adapting by identifying markets with potential, rather than doing business as usual, and channeling their energy accordingly.”
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli
Standouts include Brunello Cucinelli’s AW outing, which brings menswear closer to nature. Harmony and dialogue between these worlds shape the contemporary explorer, where functionality and dynamism blend with new expressions of sartorial elegance. The blazer – with subtly structured shoulders and softer lines: embodies measured elegance that enhances the physique, while the tie emerges as a key accent, balancing relaxed, garment-dyed trousers with utility pockets.
Outerwear takes on renewed purpose: double-breasted coats stand out with metal buttons, and the category is elevated through luxurious, technically minded fabrics. The palette spans medium and dark neutrals, enriched by intense, profound hues.
Also worthy of note is rag & bone, which introduced a new chapter titled Tailored in Denim for its Fall 2026 outing, marking the debut of Swaim Hutson as men’s lead. Rooted in material innovation and renewed clarity of purpose, the collection returns to craft—meticulous construction and thoughtful detailing: filtered through a clean, utilitarian 1990s sensibility reimagined for modern refinement.
Avant Toi
The result is a wardrobe balancing structure and ease, precision and pragmatism. Continuing this craft-driven path, Avant Toi presents Rooted Ritual Paths, exploring the contemporary need to rediscover roots, balance and material connection. The collection meditates on grounding and touch, where dressing becomes a ritual of care and softness, warmth and comfort become emotional and aesthetic languages.
Consinee
Consinee, a leading Chinese group in fine yarns and cashmere fibres from certified sustainable supply chains, entrusted artistic direction of its Pitti Uomo 109 project to Sara Sozzani Maino, with designer Galib Gassanoff leading creative development under the title Echoes of Craft. The project centres on fibre experimentation and versatility, evolving into new narratives where heritage becomes a return to roots.
Through hands and tradition, innovation emerges; beauty becomes a timeless language. The fifteen-piece collection draws from pastoral coats worn across Central Asia – from Mongolia to the Caspian Sea, the Caucasus to the Balkan highlands – uniting Eurasia beyond borders.
Woolrich
Iconic label Woolrich presents an exhibition project tracing its origins to 1830 Pennsylvania, among forests and mines in the American rural landscape. That simple beginning gave rise to the world’s oldest outdoor brand and the very concept of outdoor apparel. From the Arctic Parka to the iconic red-and-black buffalo check, Woolrich’s legacy remains central to its identity.
Barmas’ new collection embodies menswear codes with wear-anywhere practicality, rooted in denim tradition yet transcending convention through new proposals and iterations. This season marks a decisive shift with revamped outerwear: lines, volumes and fits are reimagined for lightness and ease. Trousers – central to the brand’s rhythm – emerge in contemporary, pocketed fits that balance comfort, practicality and elegance. Barmas expands while staying consistent, elevating denim as it embraces a broader vision of contemporary luxury.
by Chidozie Obasi