ITALY in summer is like florals in spring, classic, timeless and somewhat inevitable. But hidden in the valleys of Piedmont lies Nordelaia, an independent boutique hotel that exudes luxury in a way that is difficult to find elsewhere.
With only 12 guest rooms and situated on five hectares of agricultural land, I arrived surrounded by undulating 360-views of vineyards and with the feeling that I had found a sanctuary that offered the best of Italy but without the chaotic buzz of tourism.
Views of Montferrat Valley from Nordelaia
Opening its doors in 2021 after a three-year restoration by British design studio These White Walls and the help of Tunesi Studio Genova, the 800-year-old farmhouse has retained its original flare while debuting as an intimate retreat from city life.
Infinity pool
With a new three-tiered building opposite for dining, drinks and events, the hotel has managed to keep its rural touch. Its distinct stripped-back interior mixes natural stone brushings and rustic woods with large windows that allow for constant natural light and expose the unmatched views.
Semi de Girasole – Superior Suite
Staying in the Black Suite, a room with a living area centred around semi-circular windows that allow you to experience sunrise to sunset, I was taken aback by, not only its vast space, but also its modern loft design.
Each of the rooms and suites are individually designed with a different aesthetic that utilises local craftsmanship, so highlighting the country’s heritage. Although there are differences in interiors, the connecting thread is the absence of television in keeping with the hotel’s wish for guests to take a moment to detox digitally.
Resident Chef Charles Pearce and team
Taking full advantage of Nordelaia’s focus on wellbeing, I visited the spa equipped with a sauna, steam room, hammam and Kneipp pools but opted for the more leisurely choice of a full-body massage.
For me, Nordelaia’s standout feature is its infinity pool overlooking the wine country and backgrounded by a spacious, immaculately trimmed garden boasting hammocks, sunbeds and a hidden bar. There is no such thing as an empty glass – staff are so attentive that they know what you need before you do, for me that usually being another Aperol Spritz. And with a guestlist so small, you feel more like you’re in a private villa than a hotel.
LORTO restaurant
Nordelaia’s fine dining restaurant, LORTO, did not disappoint – this is Italy after all. After reading a legion of top-tier reviews, my expectation for this four-course meal was set very high. Conceptually spearheaded by Andrea Ribaldone and brought to life by Resident Head Chef Charles Pearce, the mainly plant-based menu respects its country’s culinary traditions whilst utilising Nordelaia’s own seasonal vegetable garden.
Whilst locals are known to indulge in more meat heavy dishes, LORTO maintains a unique stance on showcasing vegetables and fish – with a particular favourite of mine the Grilled Octopus with chickpea cream and roasted carrots.
Dishes at LORTO
Nordelaia is a spot for those in the know. Not necessarily a secret escape but certainly a destination for those looking for ‘dolce far niente’ – the sweetness of doing nothing.
By Imogen Clark
Room rates at Nordelaia start from €205 per night based on two adults sharing on a B&B basis