NIGHT gives way to day in Charlie Constantinou’s Spring/ Summer 2026 collection – a carefully sequenced journey from graphite greys to bursts of red and purple. Rather than relying on spectacle, the designer builds atmosphere through fabric, colour, and form, weaving subtle historical echoes into garments designed to endure and transform.
The Central Saint Martins graduate has quietly carved out a distinctive space in London’s fashion scene blending historical inspiration with modern construction. Known for his meticulous, process-led approach, he crafts garments that balance tactility and resilience, favouring adaptability and substance.
His latest collection, titled Season 5, reflects a careful dialogue between material, colour, and form, establishing him as a designer who values thoughtful innovation as much as visual impact.
Acting as a a driving force, colour flows from hard greys, and slices of a metallic fabric through to washed blues and earthy greens, culminating in flashes of red and purple: a slow crescendo that structures both mood and form.
Fabrics carry weight and tactility with linens and cottons fused with technical weaves, surfaces brushed, puff-printed, or irregularly dyed. Washed grey tees are ruched in the side pulling in the silhouette to the body and creating texture.
Subtle historical echoes thread through the silhouettes: shoulders shaped like armour, trousers recalling breeches, and metallic silver accents glinting on knee pads. Geometric motifs and protective detailing suggest protection without costume, producing garments that feel both contemporary and enduring, resilient yet fluid in movement.
Zippers punctuate the collection, not just as functional details but as tools for texture and visual rhythm, catching light and breaking up surfaces. Sharp lines and precise tailoring cut into the silhouettes, creating a contemporary edge while maintaining the collection’s architectural flow.
The resulting pieces appeal to those who value understated innovation. Individuals seeking garments that are modern, adaptable, and quietly powerful, designed for movement, resilience, and a wardrobe that balances history with forward-looking style.
Accessories continue to evolve in SS26 reflecting Constantinou’s interest in adaptability and texture. The designer’s signature expandable quilted bags return: now treated with silver pigments that catch the light and new finishes that enhance tactility, creating a sense of both weight and movement. Their modular design allows them to expand and contract, echoing the collection’s theme of transformation.
By the finale, Constantinou’s world has moved from shadow to light, each garment a quiet testament to transformation. Colours, textures, and subtle historical echoes converge, creating pieces that feel lived-in yet eternal. A collection that whispers of resilience, tactility, and the enduring poetry of thoughtfully made clothing.
by Ellis Dowle