With a lesson of fuss-free reductionism, Matteo Tamburini offers glimpses of newness at Tod’s with more artisanal tricks for spring-summer 2025.
IN AN age obsessed with likes and followers, somehow Matteo Tamburini manages to serenely go his own way. This places him amid a tiny cluster of proven creative directors who would rather just stand behind their clothes, rather than in front of them. But that doesn’t suggest that he has lost touch with reality. If essentialism is where it’s at, he’s simply going to Tod’s-ify it.
Relaxed shapes such as peplums, tops, and oversized pants came in lightweight fabrics with just enough candour to catch the light; trousers were cut high-waisted and perfectly straight or flared; skirts were cropped to modern length; and one-toned blazers were emblazoned at the centre with a gently-volumised vein throughout, which is probably as far as Tamburini will ever go to actually building a topper.
Since gaining the gig at the Italian house, the designer has foresighted some cross-current action. Some feminine shapes have gravitated to menswear but even more surprisingly, some menswear has been reaching for Tamburini’s amply cut offerings – like the iconic trench coat, in cotton and leather, takes a new fluid spin with volumes in various lengths, while the windbreaker was presented in resin-coated cotton or Nappa leather.
This season’s contenders included a travel-friendly, day-to-night slew of accessories (ostensibly for women), and fuss-free outerwear in neutrals and sandy hues. Quiet luxury and poised functionality run apace becoming the embodiment of timelessness and du jour rigour for the Tod’s woman.
With an artisanal story that looks at the hand as a pivotal element of craftsmanship – case in point: upon arrival, the house’s artisans were sewing gommino shoes—the towering set design expressed a penchant to keep things done in a skilful manner, taking inspiration from the Mediterranean coast. The result? Monumental sculptures of hands in plaster gripping cross leather bands, epitomising the Italian know-how the brand is known for.
Tamburini seems to be having fun with a more casual lexicon. That, plus a spate of recent artsy moments, namely, the collaboration with Indian designer Rahul Mishra as part of the house’s Factory project proves that following one’s journey can be its own reward.
by Chidozie Obasi