AS I squeeze my way through tourists and commuters at Piccadilly Circus, the dancing lights and traffic noise follow me down the bustling streets. There is something magical about being submerged in London’s theatre district on a weekday, observing its buzz and beauty in full swing.
Scully St James’s is tucked away just on the corner in a quiet mews, offering a welcome escape from the chaos into a warm embrace of minimalist interior design.
The entrance is adorned with rows of jars filled with nuts, preserves, and an array of dried herbs, reminiscent of my grandmother’s pantry. The dim lighting and open kitchen, placed at the heart of the restaurant, create an inviting and cozy atmosphere – almost like stepping into a friend’s living room.
Interior at Scully St. James
After years of training under Ottolenghi and heading up the kitchen at NOPI, Chef Ramael Scully has forged his own path, establishing a restaurant built on sustainability and minimal waste. His innovative dishes maximise ingredients’ full potential and blend cuisines in the most exciting ways, drawing inspiration from his rich cultural background and I am more than curious to discover what new flavours I will be able to taste.
We settle into a dimly lit corner of the restaurant – a perfect spot to observe the kitchen’s activity while browsing the à la carte menu. Designed with sharing in mind, we begin with a selection of snacks to ease us into the experience. We opt for salt and pepper shimeji mushrooms served with an addictive and tangy yeast vinaigrette, followed by burrata with blood orange drizzled with sweet honey and a floral hint of lavender.
Yet, the true standout is the puffed beef tendons. Crispy and crunchy, they are accompanied by a generously sized bowl of tomato pancetta and oyster mayo.
Snacks and starters at Scully
Scully’s global influences shine through the menu, which showcases a fusion of flavours. One of the standout starters is the restaurant’s signature dish: Arepa with eggplant sambal and labneh – the hollow inside South American dough, served with a side of smoky aubergine sambal, which Chef Scully enjoyed at his mother’s house. As we learn, the dish was created by accident but gained such a devoted following that it now holds a prime spot on the menu.
Arepa with eggplant sambal and labneh
Unable to resist, I order the crispy pork belly, which arrives alongside Piemontese bagna cauda – a rich, slow-cooked blend of oil, garlic, and anchovies. The dish is complemented by chicory, fennel, and endives, topped by a black garlic dressing, which adds an extra layer of umami depth.
Chef Scully
The portions at Scully’s are generous, so we pace ourselves, eager to leave room for the dishes yet to come. Opting for a lighter main, we choose the sea bass with brown shrimp. The fish is delicately cooked, infused with Ethiopian spice-butter, and brightened by pickled green tomatillos. The combination creates a deeply layered flavour that challenges my usual expectations of seafood.
Piura Porcelana 75% Chocolate Sorbet
Desserts at Scully change frequently but there is one crowd pleaser, which managed to win the guests hearts: Piura Porcelana 75% Chocolate Sorbet hidden underneath a layer of bright green pistachio and tonka bean. The chocolate hides raspberry flavours and is a beautifully sweet, yet delicate end to an indulgent evening.
As we step outside back onto the busy streets, the warmth of Scully’s atmosphere follows us. With its innovative pairings and unexpected flavours, the restaurant truly leaves a lasting impression.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book visit here
4 St. James’s Market
London
SW1Y 4AH