ONLY a few places capture the push and pull between comfort and wilderness quite like Iceland. Here, nature dictates people’s lives, and they follow – adapting to volcanic eruptions, icy winds, or long, dark winters with resilience and respect for forces greater than themselves.
Perhaps that is the country’s greatest allure: it welcomes both those who crave warmth and stillness, and those who are keen to explore the island’s rawness and its uncertain conditions.
Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll
We set off to Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll, situated between two of Iceland’s smaller glaciers – Hofsjökull and Langjökull. From the very beginning, the landscape feels untouched. Our 4×4 moves slowly along the dirt roads of the Highlands, climbing higher and higher over the moon-like terrain. The empty hills stretch endlessly towards the horizon without a soul in sight, only the occasional tourist car turning around after realising their vehicle might not make it to the top.
Hot springs at Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll
It quickly becomes clear that this is a place that cannot be rushed. On a good day, the drive from Reykjavik may take under four hours, but in winter conditions, with snow or mist, it can easily double or even triple the time. Still, the remoteness is part of the charm; it is a destination for the devoted: hikers drawn to the mysteries of the Icelandic highlands.
Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll
The hotel manager explains that Kerlingarfjöll translates to “Old Troll Lady Mountain” – a name rooted in Icelandic folklore, once believed to be home to trolls, elves and other mystical creatures. What began as a ski school in the 60s is now Highland Base – which offers accommodation ranging from simple camping to luxury lodges and suites, ensuring every traveller is able to find refuge.
The spirit of a mountain shelter runs through the interiors with weathered wood furniture, wool blankets and hand-dyed textiles covering the beds, all which create a cosy feeling. Large windows frame the temperamental weather outside and provide a perfect view of hotel guests enjoying the neighbouring hot spring, soaking off their adventures in the blissfully warm water.
Hveradalir
Early in the morning, after a generous portion of Icelandic waffles to keep the energy levels high, we set out for a hike. Wrapped up against the wind and with crampons fastened to our boots, we begin our ascent through Hveradalir – one of Iceland’s largest geothermal areas.
The landscape is magnificent – layers of yellow sulphides, white salts, streaks of red earth and steam curling up from the ground. As we follow the paths left by retreating glaciers, our guide shares local tales explaining how, back in the day, people imagined this place as a vision of hell itself. Looking around, it’s easy to understand why.
Buggy ride at Highland Base
Later, we pull on waterproof suits and helmets to see the wilder side of the Highlands. We climb onto buggies – windowless, wide-wheeled machines said to handle almost anything the terrain can throw at them. Although I am very apprehensive at first, the drive quickly becomes exciting, and I find myself enjoying the adrenaline as we splash through shallow rivers and twist sharply to keep up with our guide.
The next morning we set off for the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s recognisable milky-blue geothermal spa, loved by travellers for its rich in minerals, skin-healing waters. We are staying at the Silica Hotel, surrounded by its own private lagoon, set in the middle of the stripped back, volcanic landscape – the black rock covered in fluorescent moss stretching as far as my eye can reach.
Silica Hotel
The experience here feels like the direct opposite of the Highlands. My day is spent drifting in the warm water with a drink in hand and queuing at the mask bar, where each guest receives a dollop of lava scrub, silica mud mask, or an algae treatment, all lured in by the promise of silky smooth skin.
We try guided flotation therapy: cocooned in the lagoon’s warmth, eyes closed, floating pads attached to my limbs, I’m gently moved through the water by our therapist. Sound and sight dissolve, and I slip into a meditative calm – both in body and mind.
Blue Lagoon
Fully relaxed, we escape the evening wind and rain to visit Lava Restaurant at Blue Lagoon’s sister property, The Retreat. Over plates of delicately smoked salmon and tender lamb fillet, we discuss how we now understand Iceland’s appeal – a place where, despite the weather, you can always find warmth. Here, life moves with the seasons: slowing down and seeking comfort in winter or accelerating quickly when the promise of a warmer spring shows up around the corner.
by Olga Petrusewicz
Accommodation at Kerlingarfjöll Highland Base ranges from riverside campsites to comfortable private lodges, rooms starting at £326 per night for a Standard Twin Room in the Highland Base Hotel.
For more information, see https://highlandbase.is/
Accommodation at Silica starts at £612 per night for a Lava Deluxe King or Twin Room.
For more information, see https://www.bluelagoon.com/accommodation/silica-hotel.