Waistlines are getting lower, preppy finds home in functionality and more from the first day of Milan men’s Spring 2026 collections.
MILAN, ITALY — Amid the wealth of challenges and systemic complexities that are compounding the global fashion industry, the Milan men’s calendar has set the tone for a compelling start on the first day of shows.
Although creativity and sartorial playfulness continue to convey a thin veil of restraint that permeates designers’ creative approaches in times of unrest, it’s safe to say that creatives weren’t short of distinctive visions and offerings alike.
Setchu SS26
Setchu SS26
Setchu SS26
Setchu SS26
Satoshi Kuwata’s Spring outing for Setchu was a lesson in breeziness and meticulously-cut tailoring, teamed with the designer’s penchant to deliver a slew of wardrobe classics that were soft to the touch.
“My creative approach is rooted in the philosophy of balance between opposing forces, cultures, and styles,” opined Kuwata in an interview with Glass. Born and raised in Japan, where all manner of meticulousness and discipline in craftsmanship are pivotal elements, he was also trained in the West, where experimentation and individualism are more encouraged.
“Setchu, as a brand, is about merging these worlds,” he added. It’s about finding the middle ground between traditional techniques and modern design. Minimalism is key, but I want complexity and depth within that minimalism, which comes through in how the garments are constructed and layered.”
Fiorucci SS26
Fiorucci SS26
Fiorucci SS26
Fiorucci SS26
At Fiorucci, irony and lightness mingle with disarming poise in a visual narrative where colour becomes its own expressive, vibrant element. Standouts include t-shirts that shrink into fitted baby tees, waists that cinch and rise, skirts that become tube styles, and pants that morph into leggings. Heart-shaped tops enhance the décolleté, while structured, wavy ruffles turn into ironic belts that look like they stepped out of a comic strip.
PDF SS26
PDF SS26
PDF SS26
PDF SS26
At Domenico Formichetti’s PDF, clothing leaned into sharper silhouettes, deeper textures, and a more refined approach to footwear, signalling evolution without abandoning PDF’s trademark cultural tension. “There’s always friction,” Formichetti writes. “Between what people expect of me and what I actually want to say.”
by Chidozie Obasi