Models of diversity – Glass Man talks to Matt Corrias, the founder of Tigers by Matt, to discuss his experience of the modelling industry and his thoughts on how fashion can be more inclusive
Model diversity should really be a dying conversation. But it was only a few months ago that a survey compiled by The Fashion Dot found that little-to-no progress on the diversity front had been made in spring 2019’s fashion advertising campaigns. Despite racial diversity in advertising proving to be on the rise for the past seven seasons, with 34.97 per cent of model appearances being women of colour for spring 2019, this has been slow, and since last season this figure has only increased by less than half a percentage point. Diversity should not be limited to race however; size, age and gender are additional elements to this multi-faceted issue.
With an interest in representation for unconventional models, Glass spoke to Matt Corrias, the founder of Tigers by Matt, a modelling agency based in Hong Kong and launched in 2017. Having spent many years working within the fashion industry himself, Corrias created his own boutique modelling agency in the hope that he could bring more unique faces, with more personality, to the scene. With a strict policy on the number of models they manage, Tigers by Matt takes great care to manage personal development of each of their models, to ensure they have the greatest impact on fashion industry standards.
Cultural icons are a product of their time, and the fact there are many model icons of 2019 who are unlike any of those we have seen before is an encouraging note. But we have a long way to come before our notion of a ”fashion model” is effectively challenged. Corrias tells us his considered opinion on what steps should be taken in the fashion industry by model agents, casting directors and fashion brands, noting his own company goals for reference. With an honest and well-informed judgement and a wealth of experience working in the country with the biggest luxury fashion market in the world – China – Corrias offers a refreshing snapshot of the future mind of fashion, one that recognises its responsibility as a vehicle of social change.
I believe your first taste of the fashion industry was as a model, am I correct? If so, was it modelling that inspired you to establish Tigers by Matt in 2017?
Yes, you are right. I grew up in a little town in Italy and when I was in high school I was very interested in the fashion industry. I remember as a kid I would read magazines like L’uomo Vogue or Vogue Italia and I became fascinated by the images of Paolo Roversi and Steven Meisel. Later, when I moved to Milan for university, I was scouted and I have modelled ever since. After many years of travelling and working with many different people, I felt inspired. By the time I was settled in Hong Kong I had the right energy and motivation to start something by myself.
Matt Corrias, the founder of Tigers by Matt
How does your past experience as a model impact your approach to model management?
Since the day I started modelling until now, so many things have changed and my past experience affects how I treat model management a lot. I know how models feel, and I am therefore trying to improve the communication between managers and models so that we can help them in any kind of situation. I know that everyone needs support from the person who has the experience to give valuable advice.
Why did you call your agency Tigers?
For me, “Tigers” means strength, power, fearlessness and elegance. When I had to give a name to my agency, and in turn, a name for my models, I felt that Tigers would be the perfect reflection of what my modelling agency stands for – strength, power, fearlessness and elegance.
What would you say has been Tigers by Matt’s greatest achievement so far?
The biggest achievement of Tigers by Matt, as well as the models of course, is, first of all, the many people working with me. For me, it has always been important to have a good team who I can trust 100 per cent and who have the same feelings and ideas about what Tigers by Matt is doing for the industry.
Models scoutted by Matt
The theme of this issue is Groundbreakers. Do you think model agents have a responsibility to be groundbreakers when scouting? Lately, there has been a conscious effort to address inclusivity in fashion modelling, and I’m curious to know whether this is a result of the innovation of model agents or the innovation of fashion brands?
I am certain that model agents have a responsibility to be a groundbreaker while scouting. As we all know, the fashion industry is changing fast and many factors are influencing this. We urgently need to see the unique faces and the unique personalities that are in front of us. A feeling and understanding about what is important for the changing nature of fashion is a core responsibility of model agents, and selecting unique models, becoming groundbreakers in the process, is part of this. We need to keep going in this way; otherwise it would be boring.
In my opinion, it’s not only the model agents who are bringing diversity into the fashion industry but it’s actually the casting directors who play the biggest part in that. Many factors depend on them, especially because they are choosing models for the upcoming season and, in turn, determining the new look. Fashion brands are then influenced by the unique faces.
Discovering unique faces for Tigers by Matt is something that you take great pride in. Would you say diversity is core to your ethos?
Definitely yes! It is very exciting to scout a unique guy or girl that has no understanding of the fashion industry and to then watch them progress over two to three months to eventually walk for big fashion brands. For me, it is very important to help them to understand how everything works in this industry, to give them the tools to make a name for themselves and influence the nature of fashion. In my eyes, it doesn’t matter what ethnicity they are, rather it is their uniqueness that is more of an important matter.
Do you hope to see more age, size and transgender casting in the fashion industry? Do Tigers by Matt manage any models who are plus size, transgender or older?
I think we will definitely see more in the near future and I hope people will be more open to it but at the moment we are not managing plus size, transgender or older models.
What can the fashion industry do to be more inclusive?
I think the fashion industry needs to give more freedom to young people. The youth have a different way of understanding things and I think they can open our eyes to new ways of understanding, and lead us to new and innovative trends.
by Lily Rimmer
Taken from the Autumn issue of Glass Man
Glass and Glass Man, Winter 2019, issue 40, Green, is available now. To make sure you never miss out on a copy of Glass and Glass Man, please visit here to subscribe